Hello good neighbor from the north. Here's a photo of a finished kick up rudder kit...

They do look similar in kit form.

Cheers,

e

SS, what's the thickness of that rudder console's two fixed side-pieces? May help alleviate our CN neighbor's doubts!

As for those two images; that first one looks like a fixed rudder ought to, given the severe pitch of the NED'S transom. If the pointy end extends below the end of said transom I think the 'option' of having a kick-up is a wise one'd be a good thing to exercise!

In either case the actual rudder part ought to be thicker (may be the same for both standard and optional?) than the console sides for the k/u alternative.

   CN, it does look like you have parts for both rudders. Although it looks like the cheek plates for the barn door rudder are missing. You now have a bit of extra okoume. With cheek plates the rudder head of barn door is 1 1/4”. There aren’t cheek plates as such on the kick up. That head piece is about 7/8”. You civilized people can convert to MM.
I could never get my barn door to stop oscillating at speed, that’s one of many reasons to go with kick up, it’s highly recommended.

Pic of the barn door rudder...

Different color wood is the cheek plate.

Hope this helps,

e

We built our NED recently, ordered with kick-up option, and it had the same materials in the kit as in your photos. So yeah, we have parts for a spare rudder.

Careful with the epoxy on the rudder. For the kick-up to, er, "kick up" it needs to have just the right amount of freedom of movement. You want enough friction to keep it in place, but not so much that it doesn't kick up. Took a little bit of tweakage to get ours sorted.

John