Good luck on getting Laszlo's number... seriously!

When I asked Dillon about this early in the assembly of my Waterlust he replied "... square up the panel ends then add a fillet that you can shape back to a smooth curve once it cures."

Which I've done. In fact just a couple of days ago, before I got into applying fiberglass cloth & epoxy to both ends & the bottom + panel 1.

A NED may benefit from another approach, which I'm certain other Forum members will bring to the table, given enough time.

Metal half-round is available for this but is it the proper size? Is it hecessary? I can't say.

Hi there,

Something I can help you with?

Laszlo

   What spclark says. The bow will be about 3/8"-1/2" wide after the round over. Just keep in mind you're going to put a piece of 6 oz cloth around it and the cloth has to be able to make the curve. And you won't come anywhere near sanding into the stem fillet. A lot of boatbuilding is left up to the eye of the builder, within reason and materials used. I've seen fairly pointy Dories and bull nosed Dories. They all float, some are more attractive to me than others. In all cases the fiberglass had to wrap properly around them. (And if you cut the cloth at a 45 degree bias it'll just about wrap around anything.) The same will apply when you shape the outwales at bow and stern. Before you decide on a shape at either end draw a profile on cardboard, cut it out and trace it on both sides. If you like it, great. If not, try another shape. There isn't a right or wrong shape, just the one that looks good to you. 
 

George K

   Oh, and I'll sell Laszlo's number to the highest bidder!

George K

((just kidding, Laszlo!))

   I rounded the bow and stern of my Skerry by cutting a (80 grit?) sanding belt open, rolling up an end in each hand and whipping back and forth like a shoe shine boy.

   Thanks George and spclark.  appreciate the fast and informative responses.   like you said, in the eye of the beholder.  It's because I'm doing this from a set of plans, I find it hard to see the boat naturally and trust my gut.  I know there is no wrong way to do the round on the bow and the more I think about it the longer it will be before I just get it done! and yes, getting that glass to lay over two curves at once can be tough, if it wasn't for that I think I would maintain a pretty sharp line up the bow.  

thanks again guys. also....is there any way to simply upload a photo to these conversations? all I see are links to personal blogs and flickr accounts.  

   I extended my outwales past the bow by fitting each outwale peice and then shaping and triming for the next. I also filled the bow with thickened epoxy and then rounded. I had no problem getting the fiberglass to lay over the bow. It took extra work with figuring and fitting but I think it is worth it. The manual does not have you do this, but I think it was worthwhile. I am working on getting the interior ready for epoxy. Hope this helps with another point of view.

NED builder

Larry

   Keep safety in mind. Your dory will glide toward shore with a good bit of force. Sometimes you'll have a person catch you to stop the boat. A sharply pointed bow can pack a punch!

How to post photos:

https://www.clcboats.com/various/posting-photos-forums.html   

Laszlo

George,

You're welcome to post my cell number here.

Laszlo

   Thank you Larry and Laszlo and Birch. 

Larry, I am gonna fill that nice line between the planking at the bow.  to nice of a line to sacrifice, I put in a couple inches of thickened (enough microballon that it wouldnt flow) the other day to see and it was just too easy to bead it perfectly so I am going to do the entire bow and then sand it.  I made a long board sander that im excited to try out.  as well as a sioux pneaumatic orbital.  

while i'm here I might as well keep this party going...any tips on sanding out the ''gain'' at the bow? those super light veneer tabs? just eat them with the sander I guess? down to nothing? 

thanks guys. hope everyone is staying safe during this Covid mess.

Birch2 I had enough overhang at the bow to do a nice roundover, about the same depth as the rest of the outwale. I could not have abided a sharp bow.

Larry

 Has anyone tried finishing this with an outer and inner stem, as you might see on a Ness Yawl and similar?  I would still use epoxy and some fiberglass and then mount the stem over that.

I think it'd add overall strength and be an interesting detail too.  

I'd think that a hardwood external stem would be more impact resistant and look good.  It would also be a lot of work.  On my last couple of kayaks, I have laminated strips of Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  Laminating is much easier than carving from hardwood and easy to repair if needed.