You most definately do not need a power planer to build a kayak.  I used mine extensively when building my skiff for big jobs like shaping the rudder/center board and tapering the mast staves, but would never dream of trying to use it for the small tasks you will have building a kayak.

When it comes to hand planes, I have a bunch of them.  I started with the Low Angle Stanley (1 3/8" x 6") that CLC recommends for kayak building (#3 in the picture from left to right).  It is a decent plane that is pretty cheap.  Next, I bought the Stanley Sweat Heart #60 (#4).  It is a much higher quality plane but a bit heavier so a little more tiring to use.  After watching Nick Shade's build videos, I bought Lie-Nielsen No. 102 Low Angle (#2) that he recommends.  It is very much a better plane than the Stanleys but very much more expensive.  I recently added the Lie-Nielsen Violin Makers plane (#1) to my collection.  It is small and light, and much better for fine work on strip construction.  Since buying the LM planes, I don't use the Stanleys except rough work like trimming epoxy.

The one error that most new builders make is to use a dull plane.  On most planes, the blade is not sharp when new, so you must sharpen it.  The Verital Honing Guide and a good sharpening stone are both good investments.  The LM blades actually come pre-sharpened and hold an edge much longer.  The Stanleys have to be sharpened pretty often.  

Hey mate, if you're still talking about the C17 a hand plane will be fine. It will take a few minutes longer but that will keep you out of trouble. A power planer will get you finished fast but get you in trouble even faster.  

Were I contemplating this build you're getting ready for I might ask the same question.

But I'm 70+, become well-acquainted with woodworking tools - both hand and powered - in the rambling course of my life since middle school. Incidentally that was where I lerned first to appreciate the Zen (if you will) of hand tools, and the Most Useful Skill of keeping cutting edges keen.

I rented a power hand planer back in 1973 when I set about building a replacement mast for the very first boat-build I undertook. I was using 'borrowed space' in which to get it glued up and planed down so time was vastly more important than any other single factor other than doing my best to make sure that spar turned out better - straighter - than my first attempt.

Haven't used one since.

For anything.

Even fitting doors and cabinets.

I have some time yet before marrying the deck to my Waterlust's hull assembly. I've already noticed its sheer clamps will need a bit of "knocking down" so that the line of the uppermost plank edges carries smoothly across those described by the frame tops, making for a tight fit between all the surfaces and edges that will bond to the underside of the deck when that time comes.

My 'tool of choice' for this operation will be a beautiful bronze Leigh-Neilson block plane my wife gave me a couple of years ago. Already proved its worth in shaving off the little leftover tabs on the CNC-cut panels in my kit.

Of course it's entirely unnecessary to acquire as high-end a tool as this one for anything boat-wise. An inexpensive Stanley low-angle block plane will do the same job as long as you're up to the challenge of keeping the cutting edge in good shape. If you're building from plans - taking the time to bring layouts to plywood, then cutting to curves that will eventually form up your new project, I trust a low-angle block plane'd be the Tool of First Choice for bringing those rough-cut panels down to their final shapes.

Power planes are appropriate tools where a lot of material needs to be removed in a short time. For the careful fitting of boat parts I'd opt for fine control over speed every time. A well-sharpened hand plane will return hours of satisfaction in a "job well-done" that a powered plane just doesn't even approach.

As for keeping cutting edges sharp... here's something like what I use for this.

(I have two stones I acquired 40+ years ago, they still function superbly. I don't recall just where I acquired them but what I linked to is essentially the same thing.)

For maintaining the correct bevel angle on plane bladed and chisels, again this is exactly what I use on my tools for as long as I've had those stones.

You ought to be able to find these or similar items where you are down there without having to resort to having them shipped from overseas.

Seems like a pretty strong preference for the hand plane. Crossing fingers that my father in law has a hand plane lurking in the garage.

Interestingly, the cheaper powered planes are a very similar price to the hand plane. 

Good point about "not getting into trouble quickly" when using hand plane compared to a powered plane.

Thanks to all who responded.

A little "finger plane" comes in handy for small jobs.  I had an old, cheap one I'd had for years (worked fine if we kept the blade sharp, but more of a banjo maker's plane than a violin maker's plane shown above--I'm now jealous) which we used in addition to the Stanley we bought from CLC.

.....Michael

My advice is to find an old Stanley 601/2 low angle block plane and an old Stanley No 3 bench plane.  These two plane will be most useful.  Yes, Lie-Nielsen makes wonderful hand planes, but in my opinion most builders will not get their moneys worth out of the more expensive planes.

The link below shows what and old Stanley no3 will do when you use it to scarf your joints.  Buying the most expensive plane will not make you a better woodworker.  My two cents worth!  

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/q6MBu8rDCHspDFJe8  

  So maybe I am a hoarder?

���Ha! I love it. He who dies with the most toys wins? Just different toys. Me, I get by with just one Stanley block plane. And a ton of sandpaper....

minimalist here.....stanley low angle block plane.  i got other stuff, but mostly they just sit on the sidelines after not outperforming my stanley....so i have decided to stay monogomous at this point.

practice makes perfect and a sharp tool set up right (blade depth/angle) really helps.  i have a local knife sharpener who tunes up my stanley blade before each major project and after a lot of messing around i have depth and angle all dialed in.

my other go-to-tool is a stainless steel scraper - one with a cuved face (for strip builts) and one straight (great for stich and glues).

18 boats under my belt over 20 year :)

h