Notes on building a Sassafras 16 from plans

I recently finished this canoe and I hoped that some review of the building process might help others.

Materials list. This was fairly accurate. Pg 16

 -I used more epoxy than stated but that is all too easy to do. Knowing epoxy amounts needed for each task takes experience and waste just happens

-1 gallon of wood flour was far too much for me. ½ gallon (two tubs) would have been more than enough.

-Stainless wire came in handy to bind hi tension parts of the hull (bow/stern)

-I quickly gave up in frustration with the dispensing pumps (the correct way to measure). I ended up using clear plastic containers with ounce measuring capability. Worked for me.

Construction issues

-Creating the plywood scarfs was no problem but a couple of fairly major issues came from joining them. Somehow while epoxying the scarf I had a very slight overlap in the plys. This can easily happen while clamping more than one joint (two are needed). I’d suggest one at a time and  look very close at the joint before clamping for cure. Pg 21. Also some idea of epoxy volume needed for this would have been helpful. I wasted some epoxy here as it doesn't take that much. Pg 21

The second issue- plans vs scarfed plywood. If you use two 8’ sheets scarfed you cannot get a 16’ piece of ply. About 3-4 inches are lost. The layout sheets (template) for the hull sections were longer than my scarfed plywood pieces. I was advised to shorten the templates (from the center not the ends) as needed and proceed. It worked out okay but the manual and templates (for self-supplied plans builders) would benefit with more info on this situation.

-Assembling stitching wire to plywood. The manual indicated that the two bottom panels would ‘unfold like a book’ but it took some effort to keep this book from closing shut (another set of hands or some shop magic) pg 39

I also ended up with some stainless wire in the bow and stern to close up the gaps. Copper wire  snapped under the pressure of the wood resisting the bend. Pg 45

Also, there was a gap between #1 and #2 panel after all was assembled which confused me. This disappeared after the external bow molds bent the panels into final position.

-Epoxy notes. It takes a lot of epoxy to saturate the glass cloth. This is when I was most thankful for just pouring directly into my measuring cups, mixing, and applying.

While filling seams with epoxy and wood flour it took about 3oz of epoxy for each seam. Pg 76

When sealing the ply it took me about 12oz for each quarter boat. ½ interior or exterior.

By the end I learned to be very aware of drips and sags. I used flexible rubber bondo spreaders to scoop excess epoxy before hardening and to help smooth coats after applying.

While it sounds reassuring ‘that these coats will fill the stitch holes in the ply forever’ that was not my experience. Pg 86. Many holes went unfilled and getting these holes filled was a problem with no easy solution. Also, unfilled or partially filled holes show as pin holes when painted.

-Installing the decks. Finding a ½ or ⅓ sheet plywood (2’X3’ would be enough) to make the decks was going to cost me. I found my options were to buy a full sheet 3-4mm ply from a supplier or have a ½ sheet delivered from Chesapeake with expensive shipping . Both are pricey propositions for two small decks. Although I dont love the seam being visible I ended up scarfing the decks from leftover hull wood and planed the thickness down. If you plan to paint your decks this is certainly a reasonably priced (free!)option.

Sanding-it is easy to sand through your epoxy layers to the wood below in pursuit of the super smooth finish. This is a drag! Pg 94. 

 I found no mention of the use of a steel cabinet type steel scraper. I found one very useful in removing the inevitable drips and sags in the epoxy. Keep it sharp and it will save you sanding time.

-Finishing. The manual encourages one to paint the exterior of the canoe. This is what I planned to do and I did not worry about some visual issues on the outer hull. My wife later saidd’ you’re going to paint over that beautiful wood’ and she had a good point. I ended up painting just the bottom panel of the outside hull and the stems. My advice to you is to keep your options open while epoxy fairing the boat. Use wood powder not Celofil for any fairing that may show if finished with varnish. If you decide to paint it wont matter but ,if you decide on varnish, then this small tip will save you some regret. 

Looking at strip built canoes I see that they are usually varnished inside and out. 

Modifications-Being a plans builder I needed to build every part of my boat and to put some of my own style into the canoe. That’s just how I am. Here are some of  the modifications I’ve made.

1. Custom thwart. I looked at what shapes were out there then shaped my own. I used some thin ply for trying out templates. Once I liked the shape then I moved onto some good wood for cutting, router work, sanding, varnish and done.

2. Flush mounting the thwart. This was a tough call but the boat looks great IMO with a thwart mounted flush to the rails instead of underneath. There are several ways this can be accomplished (I’m sure) but I perhaps chose the most difficult with hidden hardware. It came out fine (after some gnawing on fingernails) but I can't say my method was the way to go. I imagine it could be fastened through the rail without too much trouble. I wish, however, that I’d thought of the flush thwart before shaping the rails. Oh well.

1. Custom seats. I didnt know about the small seating area on pre-fabbed seats and I liked the idea of being able to restring the seat. I widened the seat area (side to side), put in bronze nails about an inch apart (on the lower inside frame), and wove it with parachute cord. So far these seats are quite comfortable. I can also pretty easily change the color of or renew my seat area with new paracord.

1. Bow and stern tie downs. I’ve owned several canoes and there is always a way to tie to the ends of the boat. This is handy for tying up at dock, transporting a canoe safely on a roof rack, or just attaching a handle to help while flipping or carrying the boat. I really wanted something discreet and with no possibility for water getting into the flotation area. I drilled a hole and epoxied a brass tube through the rails. A piece of climber cord (perlon or dyneema) goes through the tube and is knotted for the loop.

2. Wood paddles. Once I saw the nearly finished canoe I knew my plastic looking paddles were going to stand out in ugly way. Sure, I could have bought a couple new wood paddles but... where’s the challenge in that? My cheapskate side said ‘what about all those marine ply scraps and rail leftovers?’ Looking back it might have been best to start with some specific non-plywood and go from there but I had fun with the challenge of making the plywood work. I glassed the blades with left-over cloth. 

Wood paddles look neat (with a wooden boat), they feel good, and are also a lot heavier than plastic paddles. Maybe a hollow core next time? 

Paddling. I dont have too much time yet but so far I like how the Sassafras moves. Easily driven, fairly maneuverable, and steady enough for traversing those power boat wakes. I’ve also been solo paddling it without much trouble.

Good luck with your build!