Patuxent Coaming

Hello all, new to the forum and boat building. Been wanting to build a kayak for a while and had settled on a skin on frame, but I happened accross a partially build Patuxent on Craigslist for free. The decks are joined at this point. It came with a plywood coaming he had glues up, I haven't really studied up much on stitch and glue building as I was gonna go a different direction.

So my question. The front deck is pretty round on this boat and the coaming wont bend to the shape. Aren't you supposed to make the coaming in 2 seperate halves that join in the middle at the bow and stearn to get it to conform to the deck shape? Or is there something else or another way that I'm missing?

Working on clearing space in the garage to get going on finishing this thing up soon. About to place my order for cloth and epoxy from CLC very soon.

Thanks in advance for any insight and suggestions.


12 replies:

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RE: Patuxent Coaming

Hi Mike, 

welcome to the forum.   you ask a great question.

on most of the old style stitch and glues, the deck, as you described is rounded....and yes, when building the coaming you make the coaming conform to the shape of the hull.

usually the coaming is made up of smaller pieces called 'risers' and then on top of that sits the 'rim'.  on the old CLC boats the risers typically were two pieces, stacked and had a left and right sides and were relatively thick (so there would be four pieces)...and the rim was a single piece of thinner material....so the total coaming was comprized of 5 pieces.

typically, they were assembled on the hull to ensure everything ended up the right shape.  so if the coaming was built seperately, it may not conform.

the best thing to do to get the best help is to learn to post pictures to the forum so we can see where you are and get you pointed in the right direction.  finishing a semi-complete boat can be a fun roject.  i have done it three times.   and it also has its challenges...becuase of the situation you are inheriting...which often is not perfect.

it also sounds like you have some glassing to do...and from a construction perspective....on boats like the Patuxent, you would glass the deck first before attaching the coaming.

anyway....take some pictures of your new project and post them and we will be happy to help you out.

h

  

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   Thanks for the reply. I'll grab some pics when I have a chance later. Agreed about the inheriting a project thing. I think the best part about this one is that I won't over think it because what's done is done and lets just get her paddle ready. Plus if somethings not just right I can just tell others it was some one elses fault!

Yes, it was my understanding that I glass the deck before the coaming. I'm starting to mentally prepare to dive in and trying to tackle the fist issue I see with my limited knowledge at this point. I'm a contractor/carpenter by trade so I enjoy working with wood and am always thinking a couple steps ahead to try and avoid issues(if only it were so easy!).

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   https://i.postimg.cc/fR9CJPGK/IMG-0040-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/P5YbtwDV/IMG-0041-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/q7rsgvXJ/IMG-0042-1.jpg

See if this works.

RE: Patuxent Coaming

Mike,  

It looks as if your benefactor didn't follow the instructions. Zooming in on the image shows 3 layers to the flat assembly with the rim not extending over the risers.

Here's a different coaming (upside down) showing the curve to match the deck  and the rim extending around the risers. Your coaming should be generally similar but with a stronger curve and different proportions (this coaming is for a WD12, the only picture I had that showed the structure).

And here's how it's supposed to look on a Pax 20 - conformally curved and with the rim extending over the risers to provide a grip for the spray skirt.

You're supposed to get that curve by assembling the risers and rim on top of the deck (again, similar but not exactly the same as for a Pax).

It appears that the previous builder simply stacked the pieces flat, glued them and trimmed off the "excess" on top. If it was my build, I'd declare that coaming to be a loss and make a new one.

You can either call CLC and order just the risers and rim, or since you're an experienced woodworker, use the current coaming as a pattern and make a new one.

Good luck,

Laszlo

 

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   Yeah, he didn't finish the coaming and I knew it was missing the top lip. Just was looking to clarify the correct method to make the coaming and attach it. I was going to make a new one, I just need to order some ply. The good thing is that I have the plans so templates aren't an issue. Was pretty sure I had a handle on how it should be done, thanks for reafirming that for me.

RE: Patuxent Coaming

  You could just open open the cockpit "hole", use 97 clamps to get your current assembly to bend and just make the upper lip which then goes over. 

IF you do need to use a skirt that is. If not you could just clamp it as it is.

 

 

RE: Patuxent Coaming

It will break, not bend. It's 3 layers of plywood glued flat.

It's a Pax. Unless you're in a swimming pool you need a spray skirt.

Laszlo

 

RE: Patuxent Coaming

Hi Mike, 

follow laszlo's advice.

the Patuxent was a pretty boat....and based on the pictures....what you have there looks pretty reasonable so far.

that said, i would with a flashlight, take a good look on the inside and make sure the inside of the boat was coated with epoxy and that you have glass on the floor of the seating compartment - (i am assuming there is a fore and aft bulkhead).   

not clear from the pictures whats the situation with fore and aft hatches (door on the deck that allow you into the fore and aft areas).   but before you order the plywood, may want to sort that out as well as it may make you need some additional material with you order.

the plywood used for these boats is not from a regular store....so just wanted to high-light that.

btw...lazslo....if you want to go paddling since we are close by....reach out to me through the builders club and lets set something up. 

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   The cockpit floor has been epoxied. Fore and aft bulkheads are in. I know about the ply, I can order Okume through my local hardwood supplier I deal with. No hatches yet and am still figuring out what I want to do there. May attempt a flush hatch in the front since it's such a rounded deck. May just go aftermarket on the back deck. Still in the air on those still.

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   

Hello Mike, Congratulations on the great find and welcome to the club!

As I read through your comments, I don’t see that you have identified exactly which Pax model you have acquired.  I think most have assumed it is a Pax 18 or 20 but based upon the picture, I am not convinced.  On both the 18 and 20, the forward deck is significantly higher than the aft deck.  In the picture the two appear nearly level.  I believe that there where a couple older models in the Pax line and this boat could be one of those.  If it is an 18/20, I would suggest verifying that the original builder assembled the forward deck properly.

As the others have said, the risers that you have are unusable except as a template. 

One of the gents in my racing group has a Pax 18 that he used to win the USCA SK Nationals a few years ago.  I borrowed it for a test paddle after a race and was impressed with it.  It is stable, fast and tracks very strongly.  The one negative was the cockpit shape.  While a keyhole cockpit is a good compromise on most sea kayaks, they do not work well on a race/fitness type boat because they significantly restrict leg drive which generates power.  If your boat is an 18 or 20, I would advise opening the cockpit up to the “competition” opening used by all other race boats.  Here is a picture of the cockpit in the Mystery which I hope to launch next week.

Another recommendation is to add a rudder system instead of the skeg.  The Pax 18 tracks very strongly so a rudder will help you turn the boat.  For fitness paddling or racing, I advise a surfski style foot brace instead of the usual side mounted braces.  If you will be paddling in big waves, you may want to keep the skeg also because stern mounted rudders can get lifted out of the water.  Here is the Stellar footbrace in my Wahoo.

I disagree with the statement “It's a Pax. Unless you're in a swimming pool you need a spray skirt.”  I race year round in Florida and have logged 1200 miles in my Wahoo which is a similar low slung race boat.  I have a skirt but seldom do the conditions necessitate wearing it.  If there are 2’ or larger white caps, I wear it, otherwise I don’t.

You mention that you may use the flush hatch kit for the forward comparytment.  I think that if you do a little research, you will find that kit cannot be used on the Pax 18/20 because they have a king plank running down the center of the top decks.

Hope that this helps.

RE: Patuxent Coaming

   The plans just say Patuxen and it's 17'6". 1994 is the date on the plans. I don't race so not too concerned about the cockpit. The plans actually show fore and aft hatches and doesn't have a king plank. I'm currently undecided on a skeg or rudder. For the paddling I do I'm not sure it's going to be required and both would be an easy retrofit later since the decks are already joined anyways.

I apreciate all the comments and input so far, they have been helpful and making me excited to get going on finishing this thing soon!

RE: Patuxent Coaming

Hi Mike, 

so much advice:) 

the boat you have is a classic....and as you metioned, dates back from the early 90's and is no longer 'sold' as a kit by CLC.   they did create some designs after it was retired with almost the same name....the PAX 18 and 20 but these are totally different boats.

a picture of a completed patuxent (the one you have) and little explanation can be found at this link
http://www.connyak.org/Boatbuilders/Articles/brooksmartyn.htm

the patuxent is really a pretty boat and its deck construction inspired or was carried forward into the chesapeake line.   so from a hatch perspective, if you want to do flush hatches, the flush hatch kit (as well as the coaming parts for any Chesapeake line would probably (double check measurements) just fine on this boat.

the flush hatch kit at CLC is at this link:

https://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-gear/kayak-flush-hatch-kit.html

you can also do regular chesapeake style hatches that are held down by straps...and clc can help with any missing bits on that as well.  

welcome to the fun of doing a 'rescue' boat.....these are boats that you 'rescue' from a garage or storage spot and complete after they have sat for many a year.

h

 

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