Starting a Northeaster Dory? please read!

Hey folks, first time builder and poster here, so please forgive me if this is unnecessary, but something that really helped me starting out on my northeaster dory and wanted to share, when I was gluing and clamping the frames and bulkheads together, as stated in the manual with both sides coated with epoxy the pices slide all over your bench no matter how good your alignment is pre-clamping.  just when I would get it close to perfect and give one more turn on one clamp the plywood would want to float on me.  Brass aircraft nails, 1/2',  treated like a tack weld. get your pieces glued and lined up perfectly and four-corner the thing with these little tiny nails. the plywood stayed put perfecly side-to-side on my pencil lines as I put out on the clamps.   

If anyone has any tips for me getting into this project that the manual doesnt provide please comment below. Ive found the forum to be really overwhelming.  just gluing the last of the planks and bottom this weekend, then getting into chiseling and sanding squeeze out.

thank you so much everyone.  


3 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: Starting a Northeaster Dory? please read!

 

The manual is fantastic, but a few things I learned while building my NE dory:  

1. Your life will be much easier if you can get all your encapsulation coats done without sanding! No need to wash the amine blush then sand the entire boat, especially it being glued lap construction, sanding can be a challenge.  Your subsequent coat can be applied once your previous coat tacks.  

2. It may be too late for this, but, buy the non-blushing epoxy from CLC.  I used west marine and had nightmare orange peeling problems when applying my second coat which may have been a result of the blush.  

3.  A cabinet scraper will save you a ton of sanding time.  Probably the same idea as your chiseling, but it will take off the excess bulk epoxy without marring the surface of the wood.  A good sharp paint scraper can accomplish this too.  

4.  Don't sweat your joinery too much unless your working towards a show quality boat.  Epoxy doesn't quite reward good joinery and will actually bond better with a little space.  

5.  When filleting- wait until your fillets start to set up a bit, then come back and smooth them out by dipping your finger (with gloves on) in a little paint thinner and smoothing the joints by hand. 

I'm sure others will have more to add.  Good luck on your build, it's a fun project!

RE: Starting a Northeaster Dory? please read!

you pulled my bacon out of the fire with the cabinet scraper tip.  barely had to do any sanding it worked so well on the squeezed out epoxy. thanks so much for your reply Giggin 

RE: Starting a Northeaster Dory? please read!

 I'm at the tail end of my NED build (primer and under-thwart floatation). Here are some tips that I can take no credit for - but stole from others and support from personal experience. 

 

  • Strike a straight line down the center line of the bottom panel before stitching anything. It makes centering the skeg easier. 
  • Cabinet scraper. Yes. Huge time and energy saver. Learn to sharpen the edge as well. 
  • Before stitching anything, trace the outside of the bulkheads onto some cardboard. Stow that away for later, when you cut floatation. 
  • After putting a layer of epoxy over the fiberglass the first time - only wait a few hours before cutting off the excess. It is much easier to cut it off and keep clean lines when it isn't totally cured. 

 

 

« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »


Please login or register to post a reply.


 



Follow us on Instagram: @clcboats & @clcteardrop