i have done that before. it's a bit pricey but sourcing on your own is not cheap either....so call them and get a quote...and then figure out what you want to do.

its a bit like cars and car parts....'cars are cars and parts are parts'....my dad once told me....

The coaming and spacers do not need to be marine plywood. Dimensional wood from the local DIY store or lumberyard will also work just fine as long as it's good quality wood. You can save a good chunk of change that way. Use the plans for the dimensions.

Don't forget the otion of finishing the coaming before attaching it to the boat. That gives you easy acces for sanding and shaping.

Have fun,

Laszlo

Laszlo - you had a duck figure that you embedded on your WD12 - looks like the one on the plans - where did you get it?  How did you prepare it?  Was it printed on rice paper?  

Thinking about doing something similar.  Just got to the glass stage.  A final touchup and sanding stage then I glass. 

I made that up myself, based on an onlay that CLC used to sell. It doesn't seem to be on the website anymore.

Once the graphic was generated, I laser-printed it onto rice paper, then epoxied it to the boat before applying the glass.

Laszlo

 Gents,  

The plans for my WD12 call for four(4) spacers which are basically identical in a opposite left / right configuration.  I spot hot glued some of my okoume ply (4 layers) together so I only have to make two cuts on my band saw and then I will flip two parts over for the spacers thus giving me two on the right side and two on the left side.  

Even when you add the single piece coaming on top it seems like the total thickness does not match some of the photos I've seem (like those provided by Laszo above).  Two spacers and the coaming would be 4mills x 3 or 12 mills in thickness, or about .47 inches total.  Is this the correct thickness acording to the plan?

Also, I see the merits to the "build on method" using a plastic sheet, but if time is not an issue, any downside to just doing (gluing) each layer (in place) one at a time? 

Any help will be appreciated

That photo of mine is an oblique view with strong shadows of a curved coaming, so I think it may exaggerate the thickness visually. 2 spacers and the coaming are the correct layering, just as the plans show. That is what I have in my photos, too.

The downside to gluing the pieces directly to the hull is that makes sanding the hull and the coaming more difficult since the hull prevents you from gaining easy access to the coaming and vice versa. You end up needing to sand around the coaming by wrapping your finger with sandpaper or some other nuisance arrangement.

It also makes cleaning up glue messes more difficult.

I've done it both ways and can't think of why I'd ever want to go back to doing it like the manual says.

Laszlo