Probably no hard & fast formula for this. Usually it’s add ‘enuf of each’ until it looks right for the task.

Might try a tablespoon of wood dust, add water & mix until it’s a stiff paste, then add yellow glue slowly until it’s smooth enough to work with. You think you’ll need more, make note of how much you’ve used & adjust accordingly.

Working with solid wood strips is a bit different than the marine plywood kits from CLC are built around so whether this scratch filler’d be something used for plywood I’ll leave for others to comment on. Personally I’d stick with epoxy & proper fillers for plywood that’s destined to receive epoxy & perhaps fiberglass over it for final finish.

hi, 

i have made a number of strip builts and have used this technique and a variation of it.

on the first variation, spclark describes it relatively well, except that you really want as little glue as possible and you don't want it 'creamy', but just pasty enough that you can trowel it into the crack.  so dry as possible and little glue.

once it is in there, it should dry relatively quickly and a couple quick brushes of 80/100 grit sandpaper on a sandling block and your gap will disappear.  

if you make it too wet/too gluey, it will soak into the adjacent strips and cause discoloration.

the other variation of this, for really small gaps is simply a bit of glue in the gap....let it dry a bit and then 80/100 grit sandpaper along the crack and the sawdust will fill in the gap as it contacts the glue.

both of these techniques can be practiced on scrap strips (with gaps) to get comfortable with it.

my only other comment is to be careful of using epoxy fillers for gaps.  the main reason is that this is very hard to color match and is more challenging to sand becuase epoxy is very hard relative to cedar.

there is no problem with wood glue (that's how you put the strips together to begin with)....it will all be encapsulated between the internal and external glassing/epoxy.

h

 For what it is worth, I beleive that Nick Schade has changed his technique a bit since writing the build manual for the Mystic River.  If you watch his most recent round of vidoes, he fills bigger gaps with a sliver of wood cut from strip of similar color and glues in into the gap.  For smaller gaps, he uses a mixture of epoxy and wood flour/saw dust.  I find that I can get a very good color match with the epoxy mixture by adding cab-o-sil to lighten and wood flour to darken as required.

   Adding Knob Creek to the gap won't make it go away, but it won't seem as important. If it seems worse..........reapply the KC......go to another room.

Interesting aside Grumps.

I find Tanqueray useful in much the same fashion, and it doesn’t stain.   

Titebond III is very watery, I wouldn't think you'd need to add any water to it, just fine sawdust.