Hi Johannes,  

I've not built a WD double, but I have built several other CLC stitch-and-glue boats.  With that experience under my belt, I offer the following thought:  I wonder if slightly loosening a couple of the wire stitches of the bow hull panels on each side (outboard of the coming-panel junction) would allow the "U-shaped" curve of the bow deck panels to relax a bit, widening the outboard ends of the "U," and thus allowing the coaming to fit more tightly into the apex of the "U."

I may be totally off in my thinking, and I am sure other WD double builders will log on to offer their own suggestions.  I do know the CLC builders forums are fountains of wisdom from the community of CLC builders so stay tuned and welcome to the forum.

All the best,

Mark

I built a few WD doubles (from plans) a year ago. That gap was the toughest to deal with.

First, the parts need to be beveled -can’t tell if that’s the case in your pic. Also, the deck forms must be installed, and the deck camber fully induced into the foredeck panel. That cockpit apron is only meant to fit a curved deck, as it itself slopes down and aft where it meets the deck.

With all that understood, I’d add another 2 pair of stitch holes at the forward point of the apron, and get those 3 (1+2) stitches as closely drawn together as possible, then slowly work aft from the peak.

The other corners you mention will come pretty tight if beveled properly, but I recall the “shoulders” and “hips”, the two ends of the deck strake, were tough to cleanly blend. Our paint scheme (varnish deck, paint starting ~1/2” above the shear corner), allowed us to both generously round that edge and not have to worry about sanding through the veneers unevenly. Still, we had the opportunity to test the look of wood flour tinted epoxy in a few places....

Mark and Nemochad,

thanks alot for the input and courage-building!

I'll do some beveling first (not the case yet; sticked closely to the bevel diagram), add the holes and then invest more patiente into the wiring process.