First guess would be poor bonding between the paint and epoxy. Is it comming of in flakes/chips (like if someone painted over old varnished trim in a house) or rubbing off like it was sanded down?

another question i would ask is how long since the bright-sides has been applied.   while it is a reasonably durable paint, it does take a while for it to really be baked/cured.

i usually give it a couple weeks before serious abraision.

i also wonder given the weight of skerry and that trailer pads sometimes are a little agressive if you shouldn't try towel between the boat and the bunks....while i consider it a good paint, you may be asking more of it than it is capable of delivering.

h

���I concur that it takes at least a couple weeks for the paint to cure completely. Also did you use the high fill primer? I did on the outside and I think it can create a softer finish that Brightsides right on the epoxy. As I have repaired paint dings I have been sanding right to the epoxy and recoating with the finish and it is harder once cured.

   Okay...

Definitely rubbing off.  No sign of flakes or hips and the bunks are turning green (the color of thepaint).

The paint was on for 2-1/2weeks before the boat got out of the workshop and onto the trailer.  The bunks are set up pretty much square to the part of the boat that rides on them during travel. Next time I have it off the trailer I will look to see if the wear is as bad there as the sections that only ontact the bunks during launching.

I did use the recommended Interlux high-build primer.  

So it looks like I am doomed to sand back the areas that contact the bunks, fair them (with epoxy, no more of that primer) and repaint.  Fun fall (or spring) project!

yep....sounds like you have two factors working against you....relatively young paint and the primer.

i had a kayak with the same issue...so the good news is its actually pretty straight-forward to redo.....and you already have the primer down to fill any little holes, scratches.

turns out the primer, when used properly, is basically all sanded off...like i was saying, it's just there to fill little holes/scratches.  so it should look mostly like bare epoxy prior to paint....not like a primer coat of of paint upon which you put the top coat. 

h

   Yeah, I made a bit of mistake trying to make the primer cover too much.  Also it's very hygroscopic.  They warn about that but maybe i didn't take them seriously enough.  Paint in low humidity and don't leave the primer uncoated any longer than it takes for it to dry.

Next time, more time sanding epoxy and using epoxy fill if needed, then paint right to the superclean epoxy.  Yeah.  That's the whole part that was the hardest.  Sand.  Clean. Sand. ad infintum....

Mummichog,

Don't fair with epoxy if you're painting. That's expensive, heavy and lots of work. Instead, use a fairing compound like epoxy/phenolic microballoons. It's light, easy to sand and cheaper than straight epoxy. That'll give you the smooth coat that will need the lightest of priming or a final skim coat of epoxy, whichever you prefer.

Have fun,

Laszlo

Although I have had good luck with Brightsides on a couple of kayaks, I was looking for something more durable for the bottom of my GIS.  I ended up going with an airboat coating called Wetlander that is very slick and very tough.  It is much easier to apply than Brightsides and will go over your existing paint with minimum preparation.  The only downside is that it is expensive.      

���Oh, I used filler. Mostly the cellofil that was in the kit. It spread smoother than wood flour and I just didn't need enough to go get a thing of microballoons.

Paul T - i'd had the same problem - paint rubbing off where the hull bottom contacted the paint.  I've had a little bit of success with putting a layer of FleX Tape over the affected areas.  It seems though that the trailer padding is starting to break through even that stuff.   I think the longer term solution though will be to cover the carpet areas on the trailer, that contact the hull, with a strip of vinyl/linoleum, and then smothering that vinyl in silicon lubricant or other substance to keep it slippery.  db

I know a guy that put plastic on his bunks. He then waxed the bunks. He then proceeded to back the boat down the ramp with the winch unhooked and driver in the boat. He hit the brakes and the boat slid off right onto the ramp.

.

Floating on or dragging it up the bunks with the winch?  Float as much as you can.     

Paul,

I painted my Peeler Skiff with Brightsides in August 2014. Now in her fourth season being operated in saltwater and launched and recovered with an EZ-Loader trailer, the bottom looks like the day she was launched. No compaints with the Brightsides. People often ask me if it's gelcoat. One of the launch ramps we use requires winching the boat all the way up the bunks because its angle is too shallow to float it on. The Peeler Skiff is much heavier than a Skerry so probably puts more stress on the paint.

I have to admit that the Pre Kote's tendency to absorb moisture scared me and I sanded almost all of it off before painting with Brightsides and I didn't wait any longer than I had to to get paint on it. Have you asked Interlux what they think might be wrong?

Good luck,

Dick