Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

On my second CLC kayak kit.  The rear hull of this model requires so much bend in the Okume that my board literally ripped.  About a two inch crack.  I was able to muscle it back into shape with superglue, then filled it with epoxy and wood flour front and back.  I then went on to tack glueing the stitched hull as normal with the intention of fairing this mess once the inside seams are filleted and taped.  Then covering with fiberglass (two layers) as per usual.   My assumption is that there is so much glass and resin around this that it will make no difference...  the alternative of course is to buy another hull kit.  Thoughts?


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RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

Same thing happened to me on my WD12:

I fixed it pretty much the way you described it, just without the superglue (I used epoxy/woodflour and clamps to hold it together). Turned out well, it ended up invisible.

It's still going strong after over 10 years. Yours should be fine.

Laszlo

 

RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

ouch!

based on your approach you will be just fine.  i did this on a deck piece on one of my boats.  fortunately, it was under an area to be painted...so nobody knows about it but me.  still going strong over many many years.

h

RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

   

RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

I hear that the aft panels take a lot of bending. I suspect it you need to torque them down like head bolts on an engine, a little at a time across the whole seam(s).

..

Given the stuff I've repaired your fix will be just fine.      

RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

I had the same thing happen with the coaming on my Oxford II build. Was very easy to fill and hide. In fact, I'll go out on a limb here and say that part of the challenge in building wood boats is hiding your mistakes :-) 

RE: Tough Time with Shearwater Sport

As long as you can hide 'em, it's part of the fun!   

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