Okay, the stitching is WAY too loose.  You'll need to undo all of the stitches.  When you begin re-stitching, make sure that the inside corner/shoulder of the rabbet/rebate is snug up against the mating corner of the plank.  Your boat should be pulling itself together into a wondrous boat shape, not laying there across the sawhorses like a wet lasagna noodle.

Not only should you not be able to see between the planks, but you should not even be able to see the rabbet.  The good news is that this is all completely recoverable.  Your joints should look like this when you're done.  Good luck and keep us posted...

FWIW:

Hi Dave,

I  agree with Captain Skully. When I built my CY, I stitched planks 1 and 2 on both sides, together except for the 10”, or so at the bow (those will come together when you bring the bow ends, together). All wires were much tighter than in the pictures you posted, but not so tight that they could not be adjusted. All rabbets were in all the way (except, again for the bow ends.) 

I then, flipped the boat upside down onto two aluminum ladders (with padding to prevent dings in the plywood). This allowed for stitching the other planks in the order you mentioned, with relatively more ease as gravity helps the planks take their “banana” boat shape, rather than trying to fight the curves of the boat, which tend to lay flat on a table, or saw horses.

By the time all planks were stitched together, all rabbets were properly interlocked; I then, joined all the bow planks, using two scraps of 2X1 against each bow side and slowly brought them together and secured them in place with judiciously located clamps. This allowed stitching of the planks on the last few inches at the bow.

I had a tough time getting the stern planks to conform to the wineglass transom, until I realized what the cropped black and white picture in the original  assembly manual actually showed two 2X4’s on the sides: I turned the boat right side up, again, and as soon as I literally hung the stern top planks on a 2X4 on each sides, gravity took over, pulled the stern rabbets into alignment and I could then mate the stern planks to the transom.

It was then, a matter of tightening all of the wires, alternating sides in order to keep the boat twist free. I would check for twist with sighting sticks, plumb bob and eyeballs.

Please, note that mine was an earlier 2007 CY version, with scarf joints in lieu of puzzle joints and no alignment tabs for the frames. In any case, I do not believe that would affect how the planks come together.

PS: I did insert frames at the proper location inside of the boat and held them in place with bar clamps to make sure it all fit, before epoxying the lap joints.

"Wet Lasagna Noodle"  - Good one!  Possible name for me next boat...   

 Eric,

Thanks for the constructive criticism and suggestions.

I gather that I misunderstood when the manual said, "loosely" and indicated that wires would be tightened up later. Glad I asked.

 DaveJ

It helps if you can get some helping hands for this part of the process, to sorta help coax things along into place...gently.

.....Michael

Hey DaveJ, I didn't mean to sound harsh.  I was probably dealing with some stress that had nothing to do with this forum.  Anyway, I also used a 1/8" line tied in a loop to hold the boat together into a U-shape fore and aft while I was stitching it together.  I also was working alone.