No idea Capt., my only experience has been with WEST System stuff & that was 30 years ago.

You feel the 'Zilla products will save you time / be less expensive / produce a better result than simply augmented epoxy?

Or are you simply hankering for an opportunity to gain experience with other materials for tasks which with you're already familiar?

(John et al may be able to give us some insights into this, yes?)

Certainly either one is ample motivation for exploration. Let us know what you learn should you choose the former path please.  

I have a case of each product mentioned above and want to make sure that I use it for the correct application.  For example, I mixed colloidal silica when gooping the LapStitch™ seams on my EP and mixed wood flour when doing all of the fillets. 

I'm also doing a YouTube video series (Midnight Maker channel), so I want to showcase each product for it's properly intended application, first to make sure MAS is happy with the video and second to pass on that knowledge to the viewers (or vice versa).

Having hand-mixed dozens of batches of "peanut butter" when making the EP, I don't necessarily feel any need for the nobility of hand-mixing anymore.  Since the two "zilla" products come in tubes that have static mixers, I'm hoping it's a slam dunk to say do all of the seams with a tube or two of Gluzilla and tab in all of the bulkheads/transoms with another tube of Woodzilla, etc.

I will still be using the tabbing method to remove the stitches with a larger radius fillet and the denatured alcohol glove trick to do all of the final connections.  I may even get a power caulk gun for this application.

I had a hunch something like what you’ve outlined would be your reply! From your forum presence it’s obvious you have a LOT of hands-on experience with every aspect of stitch’n’glue boat building.

The labor savings of prepared products ought to be worthwhile once you get familiar with any peculiarities they might have being used. May even save some $$$ where other user-mixed materials suffer from waste.

Let us know what you learn from your endeavors! I’d love to know there are products perhaps better suited to aspects of my anticipated first build than those that came in its kit.

 I haven't used the MAS products but I've used WEST 6 TEN which I think is like the Gluzilla and it holds like death.

The problem with using products with the mixing tips is the amount of waste involved. The instuctions say to squirt about a half an oz. to prime the tip. Then there is what is left in the tip when the tube is empty. I thought I could just screw it on a fresh tube and keep going when I was 'tacking the seams' on my Wood Duck but I must have hot hands because it started to kick in the tip in about 15 minutes making it impossible to get out.

If the tube isn't used up you can reseal it no problem but using it again with a new tip is hardly worth it. My half used tube of 6 TEN came in handy for small jobs. I just squirted some out without a tip and mixed manually. Fantastic stuff.

I estimate I got about 5 oz. of product using the tip which comes out to about $5+ an oz. which I guess puts it the realm of Walmart purfume. 

   You can take a tube of 3M 5200 after breaking the seal and put it in the freezer and it will stay good indefinitely, and multiple freezing cycles, until you need it again.  Has anyone tried something similar with this stuff?

@catboater  That's great input.  I'll keep that in mind.  Since I'm showcasing their product in my video(s), the waste issue could definitely come up.  The good news is that I've got a bunch of product on hand, so I should be able to complete the build regardless of any waste per tube.  My original question was partially about how to orchestrate the build in batches to get the best use out of the tube format vs. hand mixing batches in cups where you can sneak up on the amount you need.

@JasonFL  3M 5200 is an unbelievably product for the correct application.  However, it cures flexible and the Fast Cure stuff only comes in white.  The black stuff takes over a week to cure.  I once had to do a large sail repair in the middle of the Pacific with 5200 and I have a buddy in TX who actually named his Irwin 30 sailboat "5200" because that's what the factory uses for the hull/deck joint.  It would definitely hold a plywood boat together, but would make it impossible to epoxy/varnish over it.  I actually hadn't heard the freezer trick.  Thanks for sharing that.  I've had dozens of open tubes over the years.

3M 5200 & similar products (such as Sikaflex 291, what I’m most familiar with) both are polyurethane, 1-part sealants that cure to a flexible solid once exposed to humidity. Your freezer trick is a good one, I’ll remember that!

Tightly wrapping an opened tube in a Ziplock bag works well too, as can wrapping blue masking tape up onto & beyond the tip, then pinching closed. That’s been my short-term solution for years, works for a couple of weeks even during our humid, midwestern August. Freezer might well extend that significantly.

As for getting back on topic: I wonder what the odor factor is for Gluezilla & Woodzilla?

I’ve worked with two-part, sprial-tip mixing applicator adhesives before, all have required use of activated carbon-cartridge respirators to mitigate exposure to their malodorous products. Once cured they’re (mostly) odor-free, truly awful ‘till then.

I'll definitely let you know.  I've developed a bit of sensitivity to West Systems from working with it so much (I've worked for West Marine several times over the years).  One reason I'm working with MAS is that their products are supposed to be a little easier on the user.  Once it starts to warm up, I'll have the shop doors wide open for ventilation.  Until then, I need to conserve the heat so the epoxy cures.