Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

I'm considering buying an already built Pax 18. I generally perfer rudders but this kayak doesn't have one. How would I go about installing a rudder into the kayak?. I was looking at the Smart Track system found here. Neither the forward or rear compartment has a hatch. I don't have a problem cutting a hole and putting in a hatch in the rear if it makes sense.

Also would the existing foot brace holes be compatable with the Smart track system. I'm assuming the foot braces were purchased from this site several years ago.

 

 

 


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RE: Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

since these rudders hang off the stern, a traditional hatch on the deck is not necessary for the installation.  a hatch becomes pretty important to access or retro-fit a retractable skeg which is well inside the stern.  

that said, you will need to address the following:

  1. ensuring you have a strategy for properly securing the rudder system to the stern (waterproof and strong)
  2. a way to fish the tubing that carries the control wires from the back of the boat to the cockpit....which usually involves two small holes toward the stern of the boat (where the wire passes from the rudder to inside the boat) and two small holes in the rear bulkhead to bring the control wires into the cockpit area on either side to lead up to the footbraces.
  3. a way to handle the footbraces....which will probably fit the old holes....but it is very easy to put new holes in and cover up old holes if they are not in the right place.

in the rudder page on the CLC site....they have access to the installation directions...so you can read before you buy and get a sense of the approach options.

with respect to the challenges above

  1. you may need to pour some epoxy into the stern to ensure a solid block into which you attach the rudder.  standing the kayak on its stern and small pilot holes can be used to insert epoxy to create a solid block for the rudder attachment points
  2. a hatch on the deck aft of the cockpit could be used to help in the threading exercise.  you could also put a hatch in the bulkhead to provide access to the rear compartment which is another way for you to you thread the tubes.  fwiw....i think every space should have either a deck or bulkhead hatch so you can inspect/ensure dryness of fore and aft sections.
  3. all the rest of the action is in the cockpit...so access is not a problem to effect any minor modifications that may be required.

i hope that helps you think it through.

h

 

RE: Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

Thanks for the advise

Does the rudder bracket use lag screws? I'm not sure I'd be able to reach down to the stern to get a nut on a screw even if I put a hatch in. I'll ask the builder if he remembers what he did for the stern. I have some West epoxy from a previous project which I could use.

Which hatch would you recommend? I was thinking that the round rubber ones would be easy to install on the rear deck.

The boat didn't have a seat. What is the typical seat used for the Pax? I'd like to keep the seat pretty low since I'm above the max weight for the boat and don't want to move my CG up any higher. FWIW the boat seems very stable to me even at 200#

  

RE: Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

Your choice of both seat and rudder are highly dependent on how and where you plan to paddle the boat.  Are you going to race it or just want a fast boat for recreation?  Will you be paddling in flat water or waves or both?

I have a Wahoo which is a very similar boat to the Pax 18.  Here is a picture of the two boats side by side at the 2017 USCA Touring Kayak Nationals.  Both boats won Gold that day in their respective divisions. 

If you are going to race, you will have to install a surfski style footbrace to be competitive.  This style brace enables you to pump your knees which gives you much more power.  I installed a footbrace from Steller designed for their S18R (Pict below).  The Pax 18 in the picture also has a surfski style footbrace but he uses a tiller between his feet for steering instead of his toes.  If you are not going to race, the standard Smart Track system should be easy enough to install.  If the holes do not line up perfectly, you can use the Vertical Adjustment Kit to make it fit.  I had to do this on my Shearwater Double.    

 

If you are racing flat water, buy the Van Dusen rudder.  It is the fastest but it is harder to install.  The Smart Track Rudder is easier to install.  Go with their “Compact Rudder with Bayonet Pin.”  CLC only sells the standard version which is bigger and heavier.  Installation is easy:  cut the hole for the aft hatch, add a stern pour if the boat does not already have one, drill the hole, glue the bayonet sleeve in place, run the control lines.  I would recommend using 2.3mm Dyneema Rope instead of wire for the controls because it is lighter and much easier to adjust.  Stellar sells all this stuff that CLC does not carry.  Whichever system you go with get several rudder blades for use in various conditions.  CLC does not carry it, but Smart Track actually has a third blade (Short) which is great for flat water.  The picture below shows (R to L) their Double, Single and Short blades.  The one on the left is a Double blade that I trimmed down as an experiment before getting a Short blade.  I use the Short blade for flat water, the Single for waves and the Double in survival mode.

I am always on the hunt for something that is more comfortable so I have a bunch of seats.  If you are going to race short (<20k) distances, you will have to have a raised seat to be competitive.  I started with the Nelo Rotofix at its lowest height and kept raising it as I got more comfortable with the boat.  I then switched to the Nelo rotating seat which allows more leg drive.  The big problem is that it is not very comfortable so I can only sit in it for 2 hours max.  For longer races or in waves, I use one of the Redfin Seats.  It is the most comfortable that I have found but it takes away a lot of leg drive.  I find that that on flat water I am about 0.4mph faster with the Short rudder blade and rotating seat than I am with the Single blade and Redfin Seat.  Paddling in waves with the rotating seat and Short blade is a good way to go swimming.

Pict Rotofix Seat

Pict Rotating Seat

Pict Redfin Seat.

RE: Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

Thanks for the great write up. Right now I'm having more fun racing sailboats. I use the kayak for excersise and just being out on the water.    

Does the Compact Rudder with Bayonet Pin include the bracket or that a separate piece?

 

RE: Retro fitting a rudder on a Pax 18

The compact rudder housing with bayonet does not use a bracket.  You drill a hole down into the deck and then glue a metal sleeve into the hole.  The boyonet on the housing inserts and locks into the sleeve.  Here is a close up of my Wahoo with that installation.

  

For boats with a transom like my Shearwater Double, Smart Track sells a bracket mount version of the standard head.  The backet is secured directly to the transom.  On my installation, I through bolted the top fastener but had to use a lag bolt on the lower because of the end pour.  Here is a pict of the my SD.

 

Note how much larger (top to bottom) the standard housing is than the compact housing.  On boats with little freeboard at the stern (like your Pax 18), the standard housing may be too big.  I do not know if they sell a bracket mount version of the compact housing.

As a third option, CLC sells a couple of rudder backets which bolt to the stern and will accept a bayonet.

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