Hey Greg,

I'm planning on installing inwales on my Passagemaker.

Have you seen this article John wrote?

My plan of attack would be to locate the risers for the oarlocks, make the inwales solid beneath them, then divide the rest of the gunwale up into blocks and spaces to create the inwale.  Note that the solid piece beneath the riser can be strategically sized to make the remaining lengths of the gunwale easier to divide.

Keep in mind that the blocks and spaces don't have to be the same length.  You will need to end with a space at the bow, stern and on both sides of each oarlock riser base.  Then divide the remaining space with a given block size.

This will probably take numerous iterations of block/space to find the magic combination, so gather up some scrap strips and a ton of spring clamps.  The good news is that once you figure it out, it'll be the same for both sides.

I will be going for the rounded spaces, meaning I will drill holes in the stock, then liberate the blocks by using the table saw to slice the stock tangential to the holes.  I prefer this aesthetically and for the fact that this will greatly reduce chafe if lines are run through the inwales (i.e. fenders, etc.).  It's considerably easier to make square blocks/spaces.

   Yeah I saw that article, but it doesn't tell you much other than it'll be a problem.

   Okay so I'm doing oarlock risers with solid spacers underneath.at a later date I'm installing a lug rig,what do I need to plan for the mast thwart?

Which boat?

Laszlo

There is also the post by John H. on 7-15-2016 on his ideas for a lug rig for a dory with inwales -- search on 'Lug Rig for Northeaster Dory with Inwales'.

Dave M.  

http://www.clcboats.com/life-of-boats-blog/inwales_for_plywood_boats.html

http://www.clcboats.com/images/pdfs/CLC-Northeaster-Dory-Lug-Addendum-Web.pdf   

Oops...

http://www.clcboats.com/images/pdfs/CLC-Northeaster-Dory-Lug-Addendum-Web.pdf

Gregg,

A search for inwales will yield many many suggestions. Since your are just starting and don't have yopur outer rails attached, I would recommend Flactem's approiach.

http://www.clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/33057.html 

I used Moonchaser's method to determine spacing with the following criteria.

1. All blocks same length - 3" with ends sculptured on a spindle sander.

2. A block centered on each bulkhead. Spacing was consistent between bulkheaads considering location of oar locks. It was impossible to have consistent spacing the entire length of the boat with all of the "stuff" going on.

3. I am going to install John Harris Thwart For Lug Mast Partner - 7/15/16 post - so needed to position the inserts before determing the spacing. 

4. I installed oar lock risers so I built the blocking in 3 pieces with 1 1/2" reveal on each end so as not to effect the curvature of the hull. 

5. I glued with Titebond III instead of thickened epoxy. All research indicated that it was just as strong, waterproof and set up in 30 minutes. Since I did not have a helper or a kazillion clamps, it was a no brainer. I glued all of the blocks, about 10 at a time, to the hull first after epoxying the bottom of the blocks.  Then I rounded over the bottom edge of the rail and epoxyed the bottom of the rail. Next I glued about 10 blocks at a time which was just right considering the number of strong clamps that I have and working solo. After an hour I removed the clamps and on to the next set. Worked great. No hurry and no mess like with small batches of epoxy.

After all setup, belt sander and rounder over all edges with 1/8" Trim router bit.

Hope that this helps.

http://s350.photobucket.com/user/dlcromwell/library/?sort=3&page=1

Don