I have been experimenting the past 2 or more weeks with how to best do copper inlays.  I first found out that the shiny surface of the copper will expose the threads of the glass a bit.  I assume brass will be the same.  My plan is to glass my deck. Cure for 8 hours.  Then rout the inset for the copper.  Set the copper and do my epoxy coats.  Most likely this weekend.  I am using 6 gage ground wire.  Sanded flat on a practice piece and polished.  My first try with this method.  Any flaws? 

Gonna be a deep groove for that size wire.  I will install on the underside a piece of plywood.  Most likely one or two layers of 1.5mm okoume.  I am also using 1/8 solder for the silver portion of the inlay. 

I find it a bit humorous that when I first got interested in inlays I had delusions of using gold and silver foil.  Then nickel wire.  Now I love the snot out of copper wire and solder from the local Lowes.

 Kim

My Duck 12 plans did not come with full size prints.  Best call and see if they do now.

Kim

I had 3 kits and none came with full size prints.  My 18 and 17 LT did come with scale prints.  The Duck only came with a manual.  A sore point there.

Kim

it is a bit confusing. it sure would be nice if it did.

some of the plans come with full size plans. i have sent a couple e-mails to CLC with no replies yet. hope to hear from them.

I know when you buy the kit you get small set of plans and a manual.

as far as the brass. i have found some thin solid brass tape that i would overlay. i did this using pin striping on my MC16.5 and once it was under the fibergalss and varnish it was really slick.

I'm also experimenting with a puzzle joint, using a dovetail jig. i have some okoume that i'll do a strees test and see if it matches a scarf joint.

jon 

If you order the wood duck *plans*,  you will receive a set of full size plans. (I have a set of them, purchased in September 2008)

If you order a wood duck *kit* you will receive a kit that contains a manual, but does not contain plans.....at least, that was the case with kits purchased in the fall of 2007, where I was  "in" on the building of three wood duck 12's for other people, in varying degrees of "doing it all for them" to "helping build" ...(which quickly turned into the person helping me build the boat" to "consulting as needed")

 Julie K.

thanks Julie.

i'll go ahead and order the plans, i sure hope i can have that duck wet by May. any advice on building from a kit for the WD12 would be appreciated.

Jon 

ahhhhhhhhhh, a pin stripe.   I had the glass thread show with a wider inlay.  I bet that would look sharp. 

The biggest problem I had was shaping the bow and stern.  Using straps between the side and bottom pieces helped along with clamps.

Kim

Jon,

Here's a link to my WD 12 kit build website. I was building from one of the older manuals, before they mentioned soaking the bow & stern with a wet towel, so the bow & stern closing was difficult for me, as well.

My build is not quite the same as in the manuals. I

1. substituted wooden stem & stern pieces for the endpours,

2. completely glassed the interior,

3. used the no-hole stainless steel footbrace mounts,

4. put in the footbrace mounts and built up the coaming in a different order than in the manual,

5. made a home-made invisible hatch hold-down,

6. pulled the wires and didn't use the pastry bag/masking tape method for the fillets,

7. used a Creature Comfort seat

8. used a no-screw mount for the rigging loops, and

9. Coated the bottom with graphite/epoxy mix.

On the other hand, I still ended up 1 lb below the specified weight and have a substantially stronger duck than the standard one.

Have fun with your build, it's a great boat.

Laszlo