I feel your pain.  I'm almost done with my hull -- if the Interlux Pre-Coat hadn't turned into rubber while awaiting application, I would have been within four bottom coats of being finished, inside and out, this afternoon -- and getting the skeg straight was one of my hurdles too.  I made do by bending and judiciously sanding with results that were O.K.  Like you did, my piece had been stored flat in a dry environment.  If I had to do it over again I might opt for making my own out of something solid and true.

For what it's worth, my skeg is lined up straight down the middle of the boat and it is perfectly vertical.  Still, when the hull is right-side up and viewed from 10' or so back from the transom, it looks tilted.  I don't know where I went wrong, but getting these things on shipshape is not as easy as one might think.

I'm fitting my boat with the sailing rig and have encountered like problems elsewhere.  Even when working off a string drawn from stem to stern, getting the daggerboard trunk, the mast step, and the transom cut out lined up with each other was a challenge.  As with the skeg, it all came out in the acceptable range, but it's not my best piece of work aesthetically.

As a final thought, when the boat was flipped upside down to cut out the daggerboard opening -- something that can't be done practically until the trunk is installed -- I discovered that here was another place where two parts (the skeg and the daggerboard opening) can be in line with each other or not.  Given that the daggerboard will move around some in its slot, this probably isn't critical from a performance perspective, but if perfection is a part of your normal world, you may be disappointed unless you are really careful with what is installed where.

Sometimes I joke with my wife that given the state of the skeg (and possibly the daggerboard too), my jolly little craft may simply sail around and around in neat little circles.  She insists that that's so obsessive that it hurts.  She's probably right.

I hope that this helps you in some small way. 

���I had a similar problem with the yard for my Skerry. It sounds like your skeg will be fine, but if you decide it is not, it will at least make a good pattern for a new one. Just attach your skeg with brads or something similar to your new stock and use a router with a large flush trim bit to trace out a perfect copy. Hooper Williams - Brevard, NC

MountainSailor and Hooper, Thank you for the quick responses and very helpful suggestions.  I ended up using the kit skeg as a pattern and cutting out a new skeg from some hardwood stock I had that was very straight.  I installed the new skeg last night and am very pleased with the result.  And MountainSailor, you're not the only one whose wife comments on obsessiveness!  Thanks again!