I built a 16LT and 17LT several years ago, great boats both.  I believe that you are asking about placement of the frames that are glued to the back of the hatch covers so that they are cambered to match the deck.  I just looked at the plans for the 16LT and thre are no measurements for placement of these frames, which tells me that exact placement is not critical.  The picture on the plans shows the forward frame placed near the front of the cover and the aft one placed near the rear edge.  The rear hatch has a thrid frame which is centered on the cover.  When you place the frames, just make sure that they are far enough from the front/rear edge so that they will fit inside the hatch opening when you put the cover on.  I used pencil to draw an outline of the opening on the backside of the cover to help me visualize placement of the frames.  When you get everything all clamped up, make sure that you don't have any twist in the cover looking fore and aft.  I did not do this on my first boat and hve a twisted fwd cover.

One other Chesapeake suggestion.  Even though the directions do not call for it, I recommend that you glass both hatch covers and the cockpit coaming instead of just coating with epoxy.  This will add a lot of abrasion protection with only a little added weight. After 3+ years of hard use, the only damage that I have not been able to cosmetically repair is a badly scratched coaming lip.  A couple of years ago I got rolled on the beach where there were a lot of shell fragments.  The damage to the deck was just superficial due to the glass but the scratches were pretty deep into the epoxy covered coaming.   

Thanks Mark, great suggestions. Beautiful boats, I hope mine turns out as nice. I did notice that you attached your hatch straps to the hull rather than the deck as the assembly manual suggests. Do you feel this gives you a better fit? I have a friend who built a 17 and a 16LT, both are 17 years old and he indicated that it would be dangerous for me to paddle on Lake Yellowstone without a rudder. It appears you would disagree with that statement.    

HikeAZ - Thanks for the complement.  These were my first builds and I had virtually zero wood experience before I started, so you should be able to do at least as well.  Painting the hull on your first boat as CLC suggests is a really good idea because it is easy to cover cosmetic mistakes.  I had several on my first.

As for the straps, I did not realize that I did it different than the manual until you pointed it out.  Not sure why I mounted on the hull but I don't think it matters.  If I were to build another Chesapeake, I would go with flush hatches because the decks look less cluttered.

Over the last three years, we have paddled both boats in a wide variety of conditions, and based upon my experience I would not recommend a rudder.  The design tracks very well and turns nicely with some lean.  The LT versions are pretty unaffected by winds but your standard 16 with the higher deck may be affected a little more.  If you plan on paddling in big waves, I might suggest a skeg.  Steep waves off the stern quarter will try to push the stern sideways which could lead to a broach, but a skeg will help counter this.  Stern mounted rudders are not very effective in waves because when the stern get lifted by a wave, the rudder is lifted out of the water.  This morning I am actually putting a skeg in my 17LT because I hope to do a couple of ocean races this year.  I am not putting one in my wife's 16LT because she is much to smart to paddle in conditions that will require a skeg.

Your wife sounds like mine.    I was going to go with flush hatches until I talked to CLC and they asked how I would use the boat. I will take it on overnight trips in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, CLC said traditional hatches are better if you plan to pack gear so I am going with traditional. Flush does look much nicer.

I have the rudder kit, after reading your comments I believe I will build it like I am going to put a rudder in it but not actually install it. If I decide I want it at a later date I can change the foot rails (I know the holes for each are not a perfect match, but I have a plan) and drill a few holes. I would rather not add the weight if I can avoid it. My Chesapeake will replace a 14 foot plastic boat that has a skeg, no rudder.

   I would suggest two things. A...check the radius of the hatch frames against the radius of the completed deck. My C-17 ended up with a little steeper deck radius and a little flatter hatch. I added extra gasket material until I can remake new hatches.   B... make the hatch frames as far foward and aft as possible to provide for a "stop."  Or add an additional 90 degree piece to the frames to provide a stop. I say this because I went through some 3-4 ft surf. It might have been smaller. But it was big enough to displace the foward hatch (1" aft) and allow water to enter the foward compartment. (unpleasant)  At one beaching I rolled the kayak on its side to empty water from the kayak and heard water falling foward. It was significant water from an "open" hatch. 

I have paddled Yellowstone lake in an 18 ft +/- tandem kayak (outfitter provided). It was not a CLC boat. It was a beast in a quartering sea without a rudder. My C-17 without rudder would have done fine. I would likely have surfed many of those rollers that just tried to swamp the beast.   Of course I paddle a light weight boat with a greenland paddle and often paddle "wide right/left" to counter sea state, current, wind, etc. The C-17 gets real stable when loaded. But I've not noticed any manovering problems except it likes to go straight.  Wear a skirt. When we were there the wind always started at noon and can be brisk. Your summer water is our Florida winter water. Pretty area though. I think paddling the Tetons lakes would be more picture worthy.  

 "  I have a friend who built a 17 and a 16LT, both are 17 years old and he indicated that it would be dangerous for me to paddle on Lake Yellowstone without a rudder. "

Dangerous?   At worst annoying. But he knows you better than I do. How do you do in the 14 footer? Can you retract the skeg in the 14 footer?  I suspect you will find the C-16 faster and a little tippier.  They still turn into the wind, wave and current. That's why you have to paddle and cut an edge when required.  

   Grumpy,

I have never actually paddled with them, I was just asking their opinion. My 14 foot boat has a retractable skeg that I rarely deploy, it tracks nicely, I have never had any troulble with it. Most of my paddling in National Parks has been in Grand Teton and I agree with you. I have paddled flat water sections of the Snake and String/Leigh Lake, the latter being incredibly beautiful. I hope to do an overnight trip on Yellwstone Lake next year. Thanks for the tip on the hatches. It was timely. I am waiting for parts and was going to glue them up this evening. I will wait.

Mike

   Most of the outfitters singles were well worn plastic sea kayaks without rudders. You  should be fine.