Builders' Forum |
|
| ↓ Scroll to Last Comment ↓ | Forum Guidelines | Builders' Forum |  RSS
|
I am working on my chesapeake 16lt and am about to install the decking. However I noticed that where the deckbeam and and sheer clamps meet the angle is different. I was looking through my manual and noticed that the forward bulkhead and sheer clamp radius is 16". The aft bulkhead and aft is a 60" radius. Between the two it is suppose to be a rolling bevel so the change is gradual. Now my problem is that the deck beam which is located between the two bulkheads also has a 16" radius but the sheer clamps at the installed location have a radius somewhere between the 16 and 60 and so when I go to install the decking, it will not lay nicely on the sheer clamps at the location of the deck beam. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
Jared
4 replies:
RE: Deck beam and rolling bevel
I am at exactly the same point in construction with a Ches 16 and am a little concerned about getting a nice hull-deck joint when I am finished. I have dry-fit the decks and have noticed that it takes considerable pressure to affect the 16" radius and so I am skeptical that the ring nails supplied with my kit will be sufficient to hold this tightly while the epoxy cures. Clearly, lots of people have managed this okay though. So I will proceed with reckless abandon (which I have applied to the entire build process with stellar effect).
How are you cleaning up the hull-deck joint once the decks are installed? Router bit? Razor knife? Sanding block?
RE: Deck beam and rolling bevel
If you have prepared the angle "glue" face of the clamps well so there is ample contact the nails should hold well. They have to be driven to the thick wood of the clamp. Any that stick out into the compartment will have to be removed, sanded, etc.
The radius' at the cockpit are eyeballed. You can clamp the panels together at the butt joint when glueing the clamps.
You can use a strap to augument the nails. This will work on the 16" r you might have to shim the other strap at the 60" with blocks on the deck.
Any squeeze out can be sanded............sanding is fun........sanding is fun.......sanding is...
RE: Deck beam and rolling bevel
How are you cleaning up the hull-deck joint once the decks are installed? Router bit? Razor knife? Sanding block?
A 3/8" round over bit works nicely. Wrap the bearing in about 3 layers of masking tape to reduce the bit's bite where the deck/hull angle is acute. The obtuse area near the cockpit will need more sanding to achieve a full radius.
The router can just plow through whatever deck overhang you have, but it'll go easier if you rough-trim the deck to within a 1/4" or so of the hull side, after the glue up.
Note the routing is just a first, rough shaping. You'll need to do the bow by hand, where the bearing has nothing to ride against. Then, I think the best results are achieved with a sanding longboard, using a long spiral motion from hull to deck, over the corner, from end to end of the boat, back and forth.
RE: Deck beam and rolling bevel
» Submitted by J Earl - Sun, 7/17/16 » 3:34 PM
Haha! I found my answer. The rolling bevel is between the deck beam and rear bulkhead. Hot between the bulkheads. I really did have a nice long rolling bevel though.
Jared