Attaching Hardware

I'll be attaching oarlock sockets, padeyes, and deckplates on my skerry soon. The manual doesn't really go into exactly how to do this and as its my first go through with a wooden boat, I wanted to ask what the best practice is. Good enough practice would be welcome too. 

I have silicone sealant that I plan to use to seal the deckplates. What I'm unsure of is the screw holes for those and the other hardware. Do they need any kind of treatment or prep? Not sure if drill-fill-drill is appropriate as it seems overkill to me but again, what do I know! 

Thanks for your advice.  


4 replies:

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RE: Attaching Hardware

   I'll take a shot at it for comments, stealiing (I believe) methods John has stated.

First:  No silicone anywhere..bad karma on a wood boat.
Second: DFD, you are correct, no drill fill drill for most hardware.  Exception was on the gudgeon mounting holes, the hole in the end of the tiller extension for the retrieval line, and any hole that will be in or near water...those I did drill, fill, drill.

Wood screws:
Pre drill holes, temporarily Install hardware before epoxy/paint/varnish is done, then remove the piece of hardware so that your epoxy/paint/varnish can drooble down into the holes. Install hardware with no other treatment.

Thru holes like for oar lock sockets:
Temporarily install oar lock sockets, drilling thru hole a wee bit oversize but only a wee bit. Use Q-tip to slother a couple coats of epoxy/varnish into all sides of the thru hole. Install oar lock with no other treatment.  You may need to roll up a piece of sandpaper if the oarlock socket is too tight from build up.

Curt

RE: Attaching Hardware

Thanks!

Guess I skipped a step as I have finished painting and varnishing but did not attach the hardware before hand to get the holes in place. Sounds like I can drill them and put a bit of varnish in and then reattach once that's dried.   

RE: Attaching Hardware

   Cool..disclaimer....those ideas were just one person's perspective....maybe others will comment with their methods.

RE: Attaching Hardware

   On my skerry, I did prefit everything dry (no bedding compounds) with just the epoxy sealer coat on it, so I could go dunk it in the water and do a quick sea trial before going to the painting stage.  I needed the encouragement, it was late in the year, and I had all winter to do the sanding and painting. :-)

The oarlocks that came with my skerry kit needed a little extra filing and sanding of the corner at the gunwale because of the radius in the casting and because the gunwale and sheer strake didn't create a true 90 degree angle.  I just sanded the corner until it fit without rocking.  On mine, the screw holes vertical and horizontal lined up so wood screws would go right into the solid wood of the rail.  I just had to pick the right length so it didn't go through.  Mine are bedded with 3M 5200 sealant as are the fasteners for the rudder gudgeons and the access plates on the bow and stern tanks...they aren't going anywhere.  So far, my experience is that the skerry rows so easily, the mechanical loads on the oarlocks are going to be quite modest under any normal conditions, so I'm ok with the wood screws rather than through bolts.  I did through bolt the bow cleat I put on the forward breasthook.

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