Oh, and having reread the instruction that says to remove them, I find we've pretty neatly tack  welded the semi circular deck form to the deck.  Time for lunch while we hope for a reply.

  CMcP,

What boat are you biulding? I did a Shearwater 17 an I found I needed to leave the bow two deck forms in place while I filleted. Removing them would have allowed the deck camber to go flat. I taped them up so I would not glue them in place, and drilled a line of 1/4" holes down the center of the forms. I filleted the deck almost  to them. Once I stitched the deck to the hull, I pulled out the forms - one is near the permanate hull bulkhead, and I used the holes I drilled as a perferated line and broke it out, after I unstitched it. I might have even waited untill I tacked the deck to the hull to remove the forms. They where under a lot of stress developing the curve in the deck. Once tacked to the hull the hull bulkhead took over and all was good.

OK, I hope that helps, or is even close to your problem.

Joel

Thanks, Joel.  We are building a wood duck double.  It has gone remarkably well despite a few errors on my part.  Trying to instruct a 12 year old in skills is proving at least as difficult as the boat building itself, but the experience is well worth it.  I eventually removed the forward form.  The cambered shape seems to have have held.  We are filleted, fiberglassed, and epoxied now in both hull and under decking.  A few slow days are ahead as we get backto school.  I'll sand and epoxy a couple more times during the week and then Nate and I shall attempt to mate deck to hull one more time.  That will be the day of truth.  I really can't wait to see this thing come together.

The Shearwater 17 is one beautiful boat.  I'll have to build a couple more boats with the grandchildren before I go; so maybe there is a Shearwater in my future once I get past the Ducks and Chesapeakes.

   As you figured out remove all of the temporary forms. If you tacked the panels, and waited long enough for the epoxy to cure, they will mostly hold their shape. The hull tries to get skinnier and the deck tries to get fatter. The 14s go back together alot easier than the 12s. As you also figured out your fillets are a little bit wide and it looks like the glass is floating in a few spots. The outside is easier to fiberglass, gravity will work in your favor on the outside, while it works against you on the inside. Since you mention building more kayaks, I find it easier to let the fiberglass overlap the side panels by an inch or two, then trim with a razor blade just after the tacky stage. Be real carefull with that edge, if you let it fully cure it will be very sharp and will easily cut you. As far as your next kayak, I would suggest the shearwaters above the chesapeakes. They build almost the same as the wood ducks, and have a more refined hull shape. Great progress so far, good luck, JRC.