Curt, interesting timing. The only problem I've had is when rigging the lines can get mixed up. I hope to take a look this weekend to see if my mental solution will work in reality. I will post what I find. I can answer your questions then. Barry

Excellent, thanks!   When you are working on it, would it be easy for you to advise how much line I should buy for each side of the lazy jack (20' each side?) and the single line (2 times the height of the mast plus 6'?)

On your thought about getting lines mixed up, would it help to use 3 different colored lines?  (port side, starboard side, and the single line?)

Curt 

Putting the ball and loop bungee on the lazy jack lines seems to have helped eliminate the tangles. I take it off once the mast is stepped. The lines are 3/16 up and through the fairlead then 5/16 down to the cleat. I made that one red to keep it distinct from the halyards. Each leg of the "v" is about 4' and then about 8' to the top of the mast.  They join the single line after passing through the fairlead.  This lets the boom assembly drop onto the thwarts. The lazyjack downhaul is about 10', enough to reach the cleat and have a bit extra. It runs through the cleat with a stopper knot to keep it in place. All lengths are without allowance for knots. 

   Thanks for the info!  I'll be on my way to get the supplies tomorrow, plus I'll be adding the sail tie system that stays on the boom:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/misc/stowaway/index.htm

Between the lazy jacks, the sail tie system, and my halyard and downhaul led aft, I'll be in pig heaven.  I think I'll lead the lazy jack halyard aft too...why not.

Curt

   Running the lazyjack halyard aft would be handy as I use it to raise the dropped sail/boom when rowing. As to the sail tie system, I clip my sail ties to the inwales so they are close at hand and one holds things enough to row to shore or dock. Also, it looks as if it would conflict with my jiffy reef lines.  I will be interested in how your system comes out.

Dilemma...I got my fairlead to screw into the top of the mast for the lazy jack lines but soon realized there is not enough meat in the wood above the crossways halyard hole in the top of the mast to ensure a secure mounting.   What about these options...other thoughts?

1) Glue a piece of wood on the top of the mast (basically make the mast 3" taller) and drill a new hole fore to aft in this new wood cross ways of the sideways halyard hole for the jack lines.  This would put the new jack line hole above the current halyard hole, thus the balanced lug sail remains at the current height.

2) Turn the mast a quarter turn and use the current halyard hole for the jack lines and, don't add height to the mast, but drill a crossways hole below the current halyard...use the current halyard hole for the jack lines and the new (lower) hold for the halyard. This would be a lot easier but would lower the sail by about 3".  This doesn't seem like a good idea eh?  

3) Turn the mast a quarter turn and use the current halyard hole for the jack lines and put a cheek block on the side of the mast for the halyard...but for some reason this idea seems like a tangle mess waiting to happen?

Suggestions welcomed!

Thanks

Curt 

   Sorry Curt for the delay. Here is a picture of the top of my mast. It should help show what I did. The red line is the lazyjack halyard. 

Barry,

Thanks much for getting that picture...that explains it for me...my halyard hole is closer to the top of the mast, plus it is a little larger than yours, plus I rounded off the top of my mast a little, all working against me putting a fairlead on top...so, I think I will cut a half inch off the top of my mast to give it a flat surface, glue on a 3" long piece of 2x2 maple I have laying around, then drill a hole cross direction from the halyard hole, and just not use a fairlead.   

Thanks again!

Curt