I don't think edge-glued 3/16" planks would stay together when you started bending the panels into position. Particularly the bottom panels with their twist at the bow. Consider making a hybrid, i.e., use plywood for the bottom and sides and your planking for the deck. I'd still use a scarf joint on the ends for strength or keep the joints over a bulkhead.

George K

   What if they were epoxied together or even had a small strip of glass connecting them?

   A while back on this forum there was someone who made a strip built Kaholo. I believe he made sheets of strips glued together and fiberglassed and then cut the shapes.

   Glassing the panel would work. Use a light cloth, 4oz. would work. You want the panels to bend. 

George K

   Go for it.  I would plan the strips to 1/8"  thick and 4 oz glass on in side and out in the bow area.

I have built two Kaholos from plans and found them fun and easy.  The first one I made on the "cheap" from Luan door skin which was beautiful.  However, after three years of lot of use and despite a good in  side epoxy coating the Luan started to look weird on the outside. 

I do not recommend or suggest using Luan in place of Okume or equal.  Here in the Los Angeles Forest Plywood sells 3 mm Okume for about $48.00 a sheet.

Your board may be a little heavier than if you used Okume but who is displacing  more water, the guy with a board that is heavier than normal by five pounds or the big guy that is twenty-five pounds over weight?

If you google new cedar strip kaholo the build I was referring to will come up and take you to the post on this forum. The builder LC Mike goes into considerable detail about the process that he used. There are also pictures of the beautiful finished board.   

 I did the same thing with a Kaholo and  a Wood Duckling I'm (finally!) finishing up.

After cleaning up glue and such my stripped panels came in around 3/16," and I planed down the last 18" or so of the nose to around 1/8". This was with cedar, and even so bending the panels at the nose was a bear. I didn't pre-glass the "parts" (except for the underside of the deck) and would worry that the added stiffness would have made it impossible. I considered it but was reluctant to experiment with the real parts. I did glass the entire interior before installing the deck. I believe Mike in Canada said we wouldn't glass the complete interior again (except the deck) and while I'm inclined to agree I'm also a worry wart and wouldn't risk it. The board has held up well, for what it's worth.

George K is correct- the strip joints desperately wanted to fail during the bending of the nose (I didn't have problems anywhere else) and I suffered a few blow outs that were aggravating to fix. With the Wood Duckling I used cherry (don't ask... though it looks really nice) which was far more difficult and thankfully I wised up a bit. I hot glued some strips of 1/4" ply across strips where the panels would twist severely. This made it far easier to distribute the clamping load as I cinched things up. Once the panels were glued and filleted the hot glue pealed off easily. I should have taken pictures.

So it can be done, but it's definitely far more time consuming and at least in my case was not a money saver. I think I had more fun though (depends on your personal definition of the word) and I love the look.

Have fun,

Patrick