>>>there is only a half-plan for the deck, that is a plan from the central line out to one side.>>>

Extremely common in plans-building, any time there is a part that is symmetrical either side of a centerline.  

I just flip the pattern over to transfer the other side.  The paper is thin enough that you can easily see the ink through the paper.

Wow, you are in for a lot of fun and a resulting great SUP.  I have built two Kaholos from plans and have material for a third in my shop.  Here are a few starter tips.  Go through this form and read every comment related to the Kaholo. You will find lots of tips, some conflicting, but all with value.  Go to youtube and google and read and view all you can about Kaholo builts.  When you have a query, post it.  There is lots of good help here.

  Now, to get started  with the build.  Here are a few of tips. 

Knock together a couple of the building saw horses used by CLC.  You will find plans for them on this at this CLC sight.  They are a perfect design and you will continue to use them after your build.

Lay out your full size plans on the Okume (dont use any other wood but Okume, I have!)  Transfer the patterns and shapes to the wood.  I use a 1.5 inch dry wall screw because it has a shap end and you can push the flat head with your fingers.  Tape off the sharp threads.

The plans show cutting with a skill saw.  I use a saber saw and cut close to the line.  The Okume is soft and you can very quickly be  sanded to the line with 60 grit paper on a six inch long block of wood.

The book shows cutting out the frames with a jig /saber saw with works just fine.  On my second build I used a router with a 1/4 inch  bit mounted under a table with the bit sticking up....router table.  The first pass was 1/2 a blade width from the line and the second and third passes split the line.  Fast, accurate and fun.

Where ever you don't want glue, put down masking tape, brown or blue.  Tape is cheaper than sand paper and a heck of a lot easier to remove than hardened epoxy. 

Note the shape of the bottom halves at the bow , centerline edge.  When glueing the scarf joint of the two bow sections to the aft bottom piece the bulge at the bow centerline over laps.  This is a screw up point for some builders.  Carefully study pictures if you are not sure. 

Post your email and Ill send you a few pictures.  Charlie Canby, Avalon, Catalina Island._

From Plans

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l7g3scc0h61m6ts/2pNuj3GIz1   

I use and Awl for poking the outline onto the Okume - and making landmarks on the centreline for the 1/2 plan deck second step.

I use a circular saw (set very shallow) for cutting out

I try and keep my coats going on "Green"

And I did not go crazy trying to get a perfect (show class) finish - it adds weight and if you use the board it gets scuffed up anyway. but coats of varnish are important.

Many cups of Tea or glasses of bourbon (depending on time of day) contemplating next steps in the shop.

I really enjoyed the project - I have done strip surfboards buit this was my first plywood project.

Nick