David,

Very nice work. And Lake Champlain [sigh], a beautiful place to sail it. 

A few quick dory questions:

1. Do you think young adults teh size of thse featured in your video could fit for rowing? Sailing? With a sleeping bag each?
2. Do you think one could nest two dories, with appropriate cushioning, for transport?
3. Do you have an idea of your finished weight?

Thanks! John

 Bravo! what a neat video and what neat workmanship. 15 minutes well spent today watching the progress on the boat.  The included shots of your family remind us that families really must come first - along with our love of boat building. Thanks again. 

re questions above.

I think the Dory under sail is about perfect sized for two adults, but could work with three (but they will not be able to move around much). the CLC materials say 4 adults but I dont think that is realistic when under sail. 3-4 adults (includes teens) would be fine if set up to row and everyone is in a rowing position. your comment about a sleeping bag makes my think you plan to use the dory as a sleeping platform. I think that without a lot of added features it wont really be usable except for maybe one person to camp on it. suggest that you camp ashore. The dory has a fair amount of space for gear. But dont load down the bow too much or your trim will suck.

I have thought about the nesting idea and even wrote to CLC about nesting a Skerry inside a Dory on a trailer. I got back a confirmation from John H that the Skerry fits inside a dory, and my guess is that a dory would fit too (write CLC and they can confirm, they will run a schematic for you), but the main issue is with the daggerboard trunk which sits high enough that it prevents a really snug fit. if you dont rig for sailing and only rowing and dont have the DB trunk I think nesting would be very easy. if you have the DB trunk it still will nest but only at an angle. I thnk it would work but wont be as airstream efficient.

I am guessing my finished weight is a bit over the 100 CLC says, becasue i am guessing I have more than the average amount of epoxy on my hull (rookie mistakes).  I have been able to roll it in any out of the water on my own with a dolly but keep in mind that with all the gear in it, the boat probably wieghs about double. loaded up it is a very hard pull up a boat launch ramp without help. the trailer works well though getting in and out since it floats off well before the trailer is fully submerged. When you retrieve boat trailer can be still out of water some unlike for larger boats that are too heavy to lift. two strong people can lift it onto and off a car but realistically three are really needed to make that operation look painless.

One thing about sizing. I am 6'3" and the position for the oars is both too low and at the location specified in the manual not far enough back towards the stern. Over the winter and Spring I am going to put on risers, available from CLC, and move the oarlock postions back about 3 inches. Right now when I row, the oars knock on my knees almost every stroke becasue my knees are sticking up. and the oars feel a bit too close to my body, not giving my arms room to flex. If I had to row for any serious time in the current configuration it would be very tiring and annoying. I suggest that CLC provide this guidance up-front so people can install the risers as needed during the initial build. I would think that anyone over 6' should install risers right off the bat. They are not hard to install. but doing it after is more work than doing it as you build.

Enjoy your build, it is great fun.

David

John Harris in “The geometry of rowing”. Wooden Boats 240, sept/oct 2014; pp.68-71, says:

Oarlenght:

((A+B)+9) x 1.34 = oar length in inches

A = beam at oarlocks in inches

B = the distance from the water to the bottom surface of the oarlock in inches (freeboard)

The height between the top of the seat and the bottom of the Oarlock:

Beam (inches) X 0.17.

The distance of the oarlocks aft of the after edge of the thwart:

Beam (inches)  x 0.22 

Ruud

   I would just add that when considering formulas, if the distance between the oars and your own knees is a negative number, then you have to do something about it.

D

Indeed. Install risers or lower thwarts.

Ruud

David, I am very interested in your comments about oar lock placement and risers since that is where I am at in my dory build.   I am 6'4" and planning to follow the guidelines in the manual, but after reading your thoughts should I move the oar locks aft 3 inches from the center seat, but in doing so will I hinder my shorter kids from being able to row solo. I am also installing inwales and have risers but have followed the comments with most people agreeing the risers are not needed. Is really a matter of functionality or personal preference. thanks Dan

David,

Thanks for the answers. Yes, camp cruising but sleeping ashore. A youth group. I think the dory would be a very versitle craft for such adventures. 

Your comments about nesting are interesting. 

I will post a new questin and let you focus in the interesting rowing questions that have come up. But wanted to thank you for your response.

John

   about the risers, i am sure there are some tall people that dont need them but I know that I do. it is a question of how long your legs are and how much room there is between the thwarts.  it isnt a personal preference thing for me, the oars simply hit my knees on each stroke. Which is unacceptable for any period of time.  I am hoping the risers will be enough to give me the clearance I need.

as for the placement, I think that is far more subjective. there is not a set thing that determines placement. i am putting mine about 3 inches towards the stern from where they are recomended. but I asked about this in an earlier string and others found the set placement fine for them. one suggested trying it out for yourself before you decided. having them where they were was not awful, it just seemed to me that I would have more room to flex and stretch arms out if they were a bit further from my trunk.