I drilled 2 holes in the front and back seat on the outside of the bulkhead/frame. I run a tie down around trailer and then up and thru the 2 holes in the seats. Seems to be work for me.   

   Many boats are lashed to trailers by the winch rope of the trailer to the bos of the boat, even if not thight, and a starp over the boat at the stern. If one wanted to an addtional tie down at the bow to the trailer and second strap across the rear or straps from the transom top to the trailer would provide some added assuarance. And always check the tie downs for any wear of the stapping material. Also inspect any racheting for any problems.

When traveling, check the tie downs at any stop for gas, comfort, food, etc.

If while you are driving you see anything amiss pull to the shoulder and check the load.

Remember to chekc your tires for wear and preasure and make sure your wheel bearings are well greased.

   Thanks all to the responses on my request for suggestions on how best to secure a skerry to the Trailex-250 trailer. Despite being promoted as such, it seems the boat and trailer are not a perfect marriage. I think perhaps some modification(s) to the trailer are in order....in any case, I will check the straps every few miles......Tomc....

You may need to move, raise, or create new tailer pads to match the skerry hull. You want the boat's hull to rest evenly on all the pad or rollers. Usually one only need a roller or pad at the front and a pad or rollers on each side near or under the reat tie down will be located. The purpose of the pads is to keep the boat hull form twisting. The pads should be shaped so that when the trailer is in the water the boat can easily float off of the trailer.

The need to check the tie downs is you do not want them breaking lose ot losening too much while being towed.

  Consider using extra long straps that go over, then completely back around the boat, then tie down on the far side.  /O\  Do the same on the strap around the trailer frame to keep that strap from sliding forward or backwards.

Pad the straps with foam where the pressure is on the gunwales. 

   Instead of drilling the trailer which could weaken it my advice is to make up a set of soft attachment slings which can be placed anywhere. I made mine from 3/8" by 3 ft double braid with a bowline on each end. These are wrapped around the trailer frame and each end of the over the boat tie down is attached to one. This size is way overkill for your application but I tend to rig stronger than it needs to be.

I didn't see anyone suggesting drilling the trailer (which really is a bad idea since it makes the heat-treated aluminum brittle), just the boat.

Trailex sells eyes that slide into the tracks on the trailer that can be positioned anywhere along the length of the trailer for convenient lashing.

Laszlo

The Trailex 250 comes with 2 tie down U-Bolts, and I know some people order another pair from Trailex so you have one on every corner of the frame...but, I didnt do that because the heavy clunky strap ratchet came right in line with the gunwale on my dory...soooo, I got out my motorcycle handlebar soft clamps.  When you tie a motorcycle down to a trailer, you dont want to put the clamp on the handle bar, so I use something like  these:

   http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/34477/i/steadymate-soft-loops

So, my set up is to connect 1 of the soft strap slings around the frame then link 1-2 more around that one, so that the hook from the ratchet is in the middle of the boat, then the loose end of the strap with just the hook goes down to the U-Bolt, so you only need the 2 U-Bolts that came with the trailer...of course you could substitute a loop of line for the motorcycle handlebar straps

   I carry my Skerry on a TX 200.  I took a hint from the photos and made 2 2x4s with padding to lay accross the rails.  I attach my tie down to the 2X4.  It's worked so far.

Steve

   I carry my Skerry on a TX 200.  I took a hint from the photos and made 2 2x4s with padding to lay accross the rails.  I attach my tie down to the 2X4.  It's worked so far.

Steve

WAG7208,

Do you have photos of your adjustment? I have struggled with side-to side rocking on my tx200 as the cradle for the pads is not stiff. Its very sensitive to the angle the boat sits from front to back. I need the bow up higher than the stern a bit.  also hate the fact that the narrow bow can scrape the middle aluminum cradle when loading from the water. Still working on getting this 200 to work with a skerry. Tires are not large enough and not highway tires, Having driven from VA to FL, and NC quite a few times, long trips are worriesome.

I would only say, tie down the bow to the trailer with a secure mount whatever you have to add to the bow of the boat.

Pat

   The majority of boat trailers are built for aluminum row boats. This means you will need to make your own support pads and adjust the shape and height as needed. I would use some 2x4 or 2x6 to make the pads. Once shaped, cover with carpet scraps and adjust the height from the trailer frame as needed. One wants the boat to rest upon the tops of the pads and make contact with pads.

I would put the tie downs on the tailer frame, You can buy D rings or use eyebolts as needed.

http://www.castlecraft.com/Trailex_photo_gallery_trailers.htm

  Pat, sorry but the photo-posting intimidates me.  I saw a photo where someone had used a 2x4 (fore and aft) positioned over the trailer pads.  The 2x4 lays accross the rails and hangs out enough to give you room to attach a tie-down.  I padded the 2x4 with some old carpet.

I also canned the rollers from my Yakima rig and mounted them on the rear pads of the trailer.  This helped considerably with on/off ops.  Unfortuanately it raises the boat another inch or so higher which doen't help the side to side rocking.

Good luck

Steve

   Thanks to all for the advice on Trailex/skerry combo.  I hesitate to drill holes anywhere in the boat and I remain a bit mystified that this trailer is promoted as the perfect carrier for the skerry. It is not, as seen from the many modification suggestions....at any rate, it will work .  .....lots of clever people thinking about this.....Tomc

   Tom,

Have you contacted Trailex for advice.

I would assume you are talking about the  SUT-250-S, Since there a long bunks along the length of the trailer I would look at building them up or replacing them. They also sell web strap clips for their trailers.

BTW, the dolly CLC sells works great for the Skerry if you have a beach to launch/recover on.  I've learned to position the dolly as I pull the boat off the trailer (with the Yakima rollers).  It works best if balanced with minimal wt on the bow for moving by hand.

Ciao

Steve