Let it overlap the sides. There are several ways to trim it up that reslt in a clean edge. It will blend in when you sand it and then add filler coats. Just make sure to scuff sand the area for good adhesion. Check Lazlo's website for some good photos of the process. JRC

When I glass a deck I tape off the sides about one nice below the edge of the deck.  Next a tape on a paper skirt all around the side so that what ever drips over the deck will not spoil the sides.  I then lay the glass on the deck and cut it so that it overhangs the deck edge about two ininches.  Next I spend a lot of time smoothing out ever single wrinkle.  I then pour on some resin at one end, spread it out with a four inch squeegee .  In minutes the resin will wet through to the wood.  Then work from one end of the deck to the other squeeging the resin from the wet to dry areas.  I keep squeezing so the there are no puddles do resin under or on top of the glass. Use a minimum amount of resin.

the next day I trim off the glass at the tape line that is one inch below the deck using a razor sharp chisel or sharp knife.  You will have a slight edge to sand down.  After applying your sanding coats of resin the line is not visable. 

A general rule for my self is that where ever I don't want resin I tape it off.   Tape is easier to remove than resin and a lot cheaper that sand paper.  Sure, I do have to "worry" out bits of tape some times.  I use both blue and brown masking tape.  

Glassing the Deck

Follow link for more pictures and discussion.

Laszlo

Oly,

I am a total newbie (only half way through my first build) and I hate coming in after Laszlo who is the master, but I have tried both the "let the epoxied glass set a bit then cut it with a sharp knife" and my own "cut it with sharp scissors while it is still wet" way, and have had much better results with the latter.

I put tape on the underside of the glass (this keeps the threads in place), and cut down the middle of the tape, so the glass is a tiny bit big for the area I want it.  Then when it is wet (and after fully squeegying), l lift up the taped edges and cut the wet glass with the sharp scissor just inside the tape where I want the edge to be.  Then I tamp the edge of the glass down with a foam or chip brush (brushing it will take out the threads).  It gives a very nice line, easy to sand out, and the glass is fully epoxied to the boat without any white edge to deal with.

Again, only my way of doing things, but I thought I would mention.

Enjoy!

Alec

   LOL! Yeah Alec, following Lazlo is like having Van Halen open for your garage band. ;)

Thanks guys, but these are the rock stars. I just type a lot.

Laszlo

  Thanks all who replied, this helps alot.  Nice boats!!!

One last question for Lazlo or anyone,  

Lazlo's site mentions the following about when to come back and remove the excess cloth/epoxy:

"Once it cured beyond the tacky stage to the "green" stage (rubbery, leather-like, stiff, etc.), "

How much time are we talking about here?  I want to be sure to time it so that it happens during waking hours, and not when I am asleep.

That depends entirely on the temperature and hardener speed. I was using slow hardener and it was a comfortable day (somewhere betwen 60 to 80) and it took from morning to evening to cure green.

You could try a test piece to verify the time.

Laszlo

Laszlo,

I am planning to use your technique on my SW Double. Did you fill the weave of (and sand?) the fiberglass on the hull before applying the fiberglass to the deck? Or did you glass the deck before filling the weave on deck and hull?

Thanks!

Glassed before filling the weave. It's stronger & lighter that way. If you click on the picture to enlarge it, you can see the weave pattern on the hull and deck.

Laszlo

   Laszlo----

YEP! Ya can see the weave. I read that you followed the manual on the hull. So I did too. Then comes the deck glassing, I have filled the weave with three coats on the hull and sanded as per the manual. Then glassed the deck with the 2 inch overlap.

This process is driving me mad as the faring of the overlap is verrry difficult, weave showing on the three coated deck overlap.

Going to apply another coat on the deck overlap and try again.