Titebond and foam: very bad idea

I thought I could shorten up the process of glueing together the foam boards for flotation blocks by using Titebond II (suggested elsewhere on this forum).  It seemed to work fine.  A week later I started cutting out the patterns.  Here and there along the sawn glue lines liquid glue started oozing out!  Duh, the foam is not porous to air and the glue, if in pockets, will never harden.  It's not wood.  Epoxy is the only way to go.


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RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

One builder suggested this stuff (see below) a PL-300 builders glue...looked like the right stuff per the label, and light clamping with protection boards provided bonded layers overnight...one tip is to make sure to put glue right out at the ends of the cut foam pieces, else they tend to fan out when the clamps come off.   Used just over one tube.  Not saying this will hold forever, just reporting on what I used

https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#6015637105079893538

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

   Just read this on the LocTite website about PL-300 "Not to be used in areas subject to permanent water immersion".  

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

   I used Titebond III which is waterproof.  I did take a long time to dry between layers but it eventually did.  After epoxy, they are pretty darn solid with no problems.

 

Tim

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

   I've built a boat out of EPS foam, and am currently building an SUP out of foam, TBII works great for joining foam to wood, for joining foam to foam I found Gorrilla Glue makes the best joint, followed by Great Stuff, Great stuff makes a softer glue line that will seperate under moderate stress, Gorrilla Glue makes a much stronger joint, to the point it will tear away chunks of foam if the joint is stressed. 

Gorrilla Glue requires a very tight joint, if you have moderate gaps misting the foam will cause the GG to foam up and fill the joint. Duct tape on the back of the joint will keep the foam from spreading where you don't want it to go. 

GS will fill just about any size gap up to an inch, but the joint will need reinforcement, I wrapped the whole hull in fabric glued on with TBII to give it the strength it needed. 

to give the glue the best chance to get some tooth in the foam, I worked every surface over with a wagner 250 wall paper removal tool.

josh

 

 

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

album of my foam boat build   https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.823060704376379.1073741849.613242395358212&type=3

the place where there is more experience building large stuff with foam than any other place I know of.  http://tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=55

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

Titebond III or Titebond Speed Set, if you're going to use the wood glues for this. But there are adhesives that would work better here. Try Titebond Panel & Foamboard, or Ultimate Titegrab. Epoxy is junk compared to polymer adhesives. Disclosure: yes, I work for the company that makes Titebond products. There's a lot more than glue.

RE: Titebond and foam: very bad idea

Um, cured epoxy is a crosslinked polymer. So you saying that polymer adhesives are junk compared to polymer adhesives?

Laszlo

 

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