I always thought that the problem was raising the bottle and becoming tipsy :-)

Depending on what you weigh and how smooth the water is, you might get away with it. I've actually stood up in my WD12, but that was in totally smooth water with no wind, waves or motorboats around, and I didn't try moving the boat. But I wouldn't try the seat on the coaming. I think you'd end up very wet. A few inches off the bottom might work.

Probably the best thing to do is to go with the standard seating arrangement, and when you're comfortable with the boat, try raising the seat up little by little and see how you feel about it.

Good luck,

Laszlo

   I was hoping to stand in the boat to view the water maybe make a few casts. I'm short and way fatter than I used to be in my younger years. :-)

Hence the reason for the kayak, I gotta stop turning a key for excercise.

One would think with the chine the sway would have deminished greatly. 

Cut up a wooden push pole today for the 2 paddles and I think I can get a stubby paddle out of it.

Anyway just thinking out loud

Thanks,

Bruce

   Just sitting on the back deck when getting in or out my WD12 makes it very tippy (very entertaining for the folks at the beach). Someone with younger knees, hips, back and a heck of a lot better balance than I might be able to stand and even make a cast or two but I guarentee that if you were distracted by catching a fish you would join it.

Bruce,

Most of your wieght is centered around your butt. Kayaks and solo canoes are design with floor seating to keep the weight as low as possible. every inch you raise the seat makes the kayak less stable.

I would definately follow Lazlo's advice and place the seat on the floor. once on the water try sitting on the back deck or even standing (make sure the water is deep enough and warm enough for a dive! - you will see the difference!! 

Even the square chined, 30" beam Wood Duck is tippy for standing. Some people, with practice, can do it. So go and practice.

Joel

   Inspite of my good intentions I have only taken my WD-12 out fishing once.  I wasn't fly fishing but used a spinning rod.  Casting for me went fine sitting with the standard seat. To help me troll & hold the rod while paddling I made a "shelf" from 1/4" oak. Some shaped blocks on the bottom so I can jam it forward into the cockpit. I put a cotter pin in one side through the cobming of the cockpit to keep it from slipping. I also embedded a couple of magnets in the shelf to hold a lure temporarily if needed.  One coat of epoxy on the shelf w/ a layer of fiberglass, no fill coats (I didn't want it slick). I attached a small rod holder http://m.berkley-fishing.com/products/tools-and-equipment/classics/rod-holder-quick-set  and used a large rubber band to help hold the rod in the holder and for a quick release.  Some thoughts, I was using only a ~5ft long rod, as a longer rod (shuch as a fly rod) I thought would be too hard to get close enough to the boat to land the fish.  I did use a net but each time I caught a trout the trebble hook also got caught in the net.   When the fish got active in the evening I finally caught my limit, some trolling & some from casting.

Hope to go fishing with it again.

Ralph

   Thanks for all of your comments.

Bruce

�I have a wd10, and it is an impressively stable boat when used as directed. I also love goofing around, and I've been amazed at the way the boat's trim changes as you move your butt away from the standard seating area. At times I will hop up and sit on the rear coaming, but the boat is very tippy. The difference between your weight pulling the boat's bottom into the water and pushing down on it from above is not to be underestimated! I'd recommend starting with the thicker type of seat (try the "creature comfort"), and from there experiment with big pieces of mini cell foam to raise it an inch or two at a time. I still haven't attached my seat to the boat: I just pop it in and sit on it.