I'm sure different builders have their own preferences, here's the combination I ended up with

--Sleeved oarlock sockets from Duckworks and the matching closed oarlock:  https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#5994741029997490402

--The 8' spoon oars from CLC...hope they hold up...the tips are pretty thin.  (I'm more interested in the oars holding up from abuse then a half knot of performance.).

Curt Dennis 
830 997 8120

   they look durable enough i'm more intrested in the oarlock and mounts for durabilty , and was intrested in as much performance as i can get from the oars

Are you doing inner rails?   

   yes i'm installing the inwales

Cool...That gives you the option of doing either corner mount, or flush mount.  If you want to give me your email ID, I can send you a drawing that David Fawley (CLC) did for me showing how the flush mount oar lock socket lays against the hull and still has enough meat in the inner rails to surround the OD of the socket.  Which is what I did using 5" blocks for each oar lock socket position.deciding I could get by without a riser

I also did some tests to ensure the oar wouldnt hit the outside of the outer rail, and also decided from this test that I could get by without risersl...click here and then click right a few times:  https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#5963661161533430658

Did you see the video of Neil Calore when one of his oar lock sockets broke off?  He had risers.

Here's one of his risers before installating the sockets:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li-w_vDe1zQ  You can see that he chose to put his oar lock socket in the air space between two inner rail blocks.  You can see in my picture above that I put mine IN a block intentionally wider for support.

Sorry, I cant find the video showing where one of his oar lock sockets broke off.

I, too, am doing the in-wale & would love to see any drawings that you'd be willing to share.  The photos are certainly helpful.  Thx.  My address is TarletonBK at gmail dot com.

   tarletonbk...Sent the drawing as an attachment to email...

Pictures are here  https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#:

Feel free to call so I can explain...I'd be happy to fill in the details for you
Curt Dennis, 830 997 8120
[email protected]

   exellent pics , i'm also thinking of making double length  spacers where the oarlocks go

   and yes i did see leatherlungs video, thats definetly a high stress point i wonder if some fiberglass cloth would add strenght instead of the additional plywood

Hi Greg.... I am using flush mount (thru sockets) with no risers, thus less leverage, plus I'm building up unthickened epoxy (from gloved finger) on the 13/16 hole for the socket, assuring a snug fit on the socket itself. https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#5994741029997490402

The alertnative (corner mount oar lock sockets on a riser with small wood screws) seems like a weaker option because the wood screws can rip out.

I was considering using plywood, under, on top of, or inside of the inner rail, but CLC tech support thought I was good the way I had it.  

https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#5994740961143252242 

   NOTE: If you use CLC flush mount oar lock sockets, put a micrometer on the OD of the socket and size your drill bit accordingly....(the sleeved ones like I used are larger diameter thus requiring 13/16" hole)