Mike:  I have transported the MC 16.5 for thousands of miles on three different cars with no problem at all.  In all cases, the boat was right side up.  On the Ford Expedition I put it right on the factory racks.  On the Land Rover and on the Nissan Xterra, it sat on Thule square load bars.  The bars in both cases are padded with the CLC wrap around carrier pads.  Here's the loading process.  I carry the boar on my shoulder with the bottom away from my body.  Approach the car from the back.  Swing the bow up so it is above the racks but the stern is not touching the ground.  Carry it forward as far as you can go and then gently set it down with the stern on the ground and the chine forward is on the back of the car or rack.  Keep a hand on the boat so nothing slides and roll it right side up.  Keeping a hand on everything, move to the stern, pick it up, and slide the whole thing forward to where you are centered.  Tie it down and off you go.  To unload, reverse the process.  One other item.  While loading or unloading, lay a soft pad or towel at the back of the car roof so you don't scratch the car.  Remember to retrieve the pad before driving off.  It will not be there when you reach your destination. I have hauled this bboat as far as from southern california to nnorthern Idaho with no problems.  Good luck.  Paul 

PS.  The epoxy/graphite bottom is great for withstanding this process.  

Just be sure that the cockpit is completely covered and sealed in case of rain if the boat's right side up, otherwise you'll be driving with a full tub of water on top of your car.

Be safe,

Laszlo

   Both Thule and Yakima (I use the Yakima version on a Subaru Forester) have a version of these outriggers that slide in and out of the crossbar. They make loading and unloading a larger boat by yourself much easier.

http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/water-sport-carriers/kayak-and-canoe-carriers/thule-outrigger-ii-847-_-16192

http://www.yakima.com/shop/water/roof/boatloader

I'm in the middle of building my own Mill Creek 16.5, and I agree with both previous posts. Padded crossbars and a cockpit cover are the way to go. Good luck!

  Hey, thanks for the great tips...just what I needed.

Mike

I'm late to the game here but wondering about how you place the straps without putting strain on the coaming. On the website "Main Gallery" of the Millcreek 16.5, picture 62/68 shows one on a roof rack with the straps going right over the coaming.  I've been concerned about doing this because I'm worried about damaging the thin coaming.  On the other hand, I can't find a good way to route the straps so that they are in front and being the coaming.  Any advice?

Scott  

  I've got the 2011 Explorer, but am "vetically challanged" as they say. To the top of the car is a long reach. Our solution for both our boats were a pair of Thule "Hullivators". Expensive, yes, but we can load from the side and then just swing them up. Boats ride "right side up", paddles lash to the sides or go in the back with the rest of the gear. Regardless, the fun starts once you're on the water.

Hi Mike,

I've transported my Mill Creek 16.5 on the factory thule roof racks that came with my Forester. I would have liked the bars to be spaced a bit further apart, but they have held the kayak well (right side up). I used straps over the coamings, and whilst I too was concerned at the pressure on them, it has been fine. I tied the front and rear down, and it never moved an inch on a 200km highway drive (I stayed under 95km/h though).

I'm still need to sort out a loading mechanism so I can load/unload myself though. 

I've got some photos on my build blog at: http://millcreekkayakbuild.blogspot.com.au/

Cheers,

Justin.

   This was very helpful.  When I drove the kayak down the road, all I kept thinking was that I would be very sad if the kayak became a giant pile of toothpicks.  So I was extremely cautious about how I secured it but couldn't find a good way to have it be tight but not overtight.  I'll try to let go of some of my anxiety.

Scott