My dory is upside down as of a couple hours ago but here's a shot that sort of shows my thwart blocks...not saying this is right (although I hope it is!) but the thwart boards do sit flat on them.

https://picasaweb.google.com/114717787929554738224/BuildingWoodenBoatCLCNortheasterDory?authkey=Gv1sRgCKCBzczm_aKs2wE#5982684810309185074

Curt 830/997-8120

I also wrote the word "top" on the sticks (and each cut piece) surface  that needs to point up..it's very easy to get those blocks turned around.

Agree that the manual is wrong. I had to bother one of the guys at CLC about this a couple of days ago. The blocks in  the kit will work if oriented correctly. So far this is the only mistake that I have found in the book

Guys,

I agree that something is wrong in the manual. However, I am requesting clarification about what the mistake is that you have unearthed.


For the hull sides...  The diagram shows a block with 1" in the horizontal direction (away from the hull side toward the center of the boat) and 1.25" in the vertical (from the bottom of the thwart toward the bottom of the boat).

Trig. yields that the angle indicated in the manual as 44d should be 38.7d (meaning the other one needs to be 51.3d).

1. Are you saying the math is wrong and that 44d was a miscalculation that should have been 38.7d ? 
2. Are you saying the printed dimensions are wrong and shouldn't be 1" and 1.25" ?
3. I see you wrote that you measured 44d, am reading that to mean you measured your as-built boat.  44d in the real world means the dimensions of the cleat (1x1.25) in the diagram are incorrect, and the entire diagram is incorrect, even if it is true that the wrong angle is dimensioned.

Does the angle of the strake vary in such a way that each cleat needs to be custom and the dimensions shown are just a suggestion?  Is it that 44d works at one bulkhead but 38.7 works in another?



For the diagram of the stern seat...  The trig. works out as shown in the manual (36d). Are you warning us that the 1" and 1.375" dimensions are backward?  Is the transom really 54d away from vertical?  The drawings on page 4 are small, but it measures closer to 45d than to either 36 or 54.



I'll be getting to where you are soon. Appreciate any insight you have.

The blocks in the kit are cut correctly, and the angle measurements match those listed in the manual despite what the trig says (44°-46°-90° for the thwarts and 36°-54°-90° for the transom). You just need to flip the long and short legs of the triangle in the diagram to have it match up with reality. It's pretty obvious when you have the transom block in upside down because there's a big gap between the block and the boards for the stern seat. It's harder to tell with the thwart blocks, but still possible.

Here's a quick way to identify the angles on the blocks--you don't even need to know the exact angle measurement, just which one is bigger.

Pictures

Forgot to answer the second part...

Don't sweat it if the dimensions of the blocks don't match up perfectly, or if there's some variation in the angle of the strakes. As long as the blocks are in there the right way, it's all close enough that it doesn't make a difference.

   can we get a confirmation that the 44 dgree angle is supposed to be along the horzontal side, rather than what is shown in the manual? is this the official word? and is it easy enough to tell which is 44 and which is 46 by reference to the little bit of square wood along just one side (which I assume makes it the 44). the converging lines in a picture above should work too but just wanted to know if there is consistency as a check.  Correct?

thanks

David

Maybe someone from CLC will jump in for the official answer, but in the mean time, I can advise that if you ignore the degrees and go by the dimensions, it works fine.  Just mark "top" on the 1" side so you dont glue one up wrong and say bad words.   To me the mistake in the manual is not what degree number it should be but the mistake is having the degrees in there at all.  Curt 830/997-8120

The blocks in the kits are correct.  With three possible orientations, it takes a moment to get them turned the right way.  But in all the trigonometry, don't lose sight of the simple goal:  to create a flat horizontal plane to which the horizontal thwarts are fastened.

There's a small amount of variation from seat to seat in the angle of the #2 panels to which the blocks are glued, but not enough to impair their function.