Personally, since I switch quite frequently, I just lower the entire sail and both spars and kind of shuffle them to one side.  I image you could lash them to the mast but to me that'd be an extra step that isn't worth the effort.  I've seen sloop rigged dory pics with the sail lashed to oar but not any luggers.  

ThistleEric,

I see your point about just laying them down being easier. 

Do you take down the sail to switch to rowing because you are going in?  (or the wind is getting too high?)

Do you have one or two sets of oars?

I have two sets of oars and am hoping I can stow all 4 oars without being in the way of raising or lowering the sail.

Since I'm building the dory right now, I could epoxy in anything I want that would help stow oars or sails..your thoughts?

Thanks

Curt  [email protected] 830/997-8120

Last season I generally switched because of lack of wind...Where I sail the current it pretty strong and the sail (even loose) provides quite a bit of windage so I'd take it down to row cross currents easier.  I have also taken it down for high winds, and once I even unstepped the mast since that too has an effect on rowing.  

I currenlty have 2 oars but I imagine that by yourself you'd have enough room with 4...it'd just get pretty snug.  

I did buy some horn style oar locks to hold the blade end when sailing.  This keeps them out of the actual boat so maybe you could do something like that.  Good luck!

E

How to keep four oars out of the way while sailing is something I've pondered too.

One possibility I've come up with is to leave both pairs of oars mounted in the forward two oarlock sockets, and put a horn oarlock in the aft socket. One oar on each side can rest in the horn, and the second oar can be secured to the one in the horn. I'm not sure if the aft oar would interfere with the rudder, though.

Another is to have one pair of oars in the forward lock, with the blades pointing aft; and one pair in the aft lock, blades pointing forward, and lash the shafts together. The only problem here is that the shafts will intrude into the space where one would sit for sailing.

It might also be feasible to add couple of extra oarlock sockets up near the bow so you can keep the oars out of the way of the seating area.

psimian ,

"It might also be feasible to add couple of extra oarlock sockets up near the bow so you can keep the oars out of the way of the seating area."
Interesting...since I am in the build right now things like this would be easy to add now. Based on the comments above that are all good, I think I'll wait until I finish the boat and do some test rows...

Another idea I was wondering about is if a person could drill a hole in a bulkhead without hurting strength to lay the water end of the oar in the bow, and lay the grip into the hole...no idea if that would work...

I saw one picture where the oars in the middle sockets were resting in open oarlocks in the forwaard socket and the oar sat fully outside the boat, not in the way at all.  This speaks to your idea.

ThistleErik,

"I have also taken it down for high winds, and once I even unstepped the mast since that too has an effect on rowing."

Good!  I was hopng that could be done, but did you have to stand up in the boat to take the mast down?   Could you take the mast down sitting on the front seat?

I typically have to stand.  The problem is that once pressure has been applied to the mast and mast parnter on either side, they kinda get stuck together and you have to stand in order to both wiggle and pull it to get it out. It isn't too hard though.  The dory is tender at first but once you start to trust it, you realize it's really stable.

I have the lug rig on my passagemaker dinghy. (love it!) The sail is the same size as for the dory.  I assume that the mast is about the same length.  If I want to row for a longer distance I definitely recommend unstepping the mast as well. If you don't take it down, it will "pump" a bit with each stroke. For a short distance this is not a big deal. But if you want to really row for a while you will enjoy your row a lot better without that pumping.

You will need to stand up behind the mast in order to unstep it. As long as you keep your feet apart you will have a lot of control and balance. It really is not difficult. If you feel uncertain about that maneuver, practice it while the boat is still on the trailer.

You can roll up the sail around boom and yard together with the main sheet. Put the mast on the other side leaving the halyard threaded - then go for a nice row.

When you want to catch the breeze again, reverse the process. Once you have done it a couple of times you won't think twice about it.

Cheers,

Chris

Excellent, thanks for the comments!  Sound like I will be able to step the mast even in a blow.

ThistleErik,

"I typically have to stand.  The problem is that once pressure has been applied to the mast and mast parnter on either side, they kinda get stuck together and you have to stand in order to both wiggle and pull it to get it out. It isn't too hard though."

Is there something in the build I should do like make sure the mast thwart hole is not snug?

Have you seen in the instruction book there is one picture of a guy that wrapped leather around the opening in the mast thwart, maybe that would not only protect the varnish on the mast but also be less prone to stick?

Yeah, a leather cuff around the mast at the partner works well. This is a pic of my PMD lug rig mast step. You might also consider sowing leather around the spars where they intersect with the mast. It makes as much sense as sowing leather onto your oars. For more... C-Lute Blog

Cheers!

Chris,

Great pictures, thanks!

And that is an excellent blog.  I will read it in detail and copy notes out of it...very helpful on may ideas. 

For example...I like your sewn leathers.  I bought the nail-on leathers from CLC for the Dory I'm building but I prefer the looks of sewn on. Did you already know how to do that or did you learn on this boat? 

Also, now that you are using the boat, would you do the leather on the mast step and mast partner the same way?  I was wondering if perhaps contact cement would work to hold the leather and thus no nails?

Curt  [email protected]

Thank you, Curt. This was my first effort in sewing. Video clips on youTube helped. Once I put my mind on it, it was not really too bad and actually sort of fun. I would definitely do it that same way again. Check out this blog entry which specifically deals with the leather.

I did it the same way for the spars and the mast cuff. I also nailed some leather directly on the foot to absorb any chafing. This I might not do again in the same way since it occasionally hangs up when I lift out (unstep) the mast. It's a very minor thing and it does have the desired effect, so I have not removed it either.

I don't think that contact cement would be a good choice...  you might want to check with someone at CLC about that though.

Cheers,

Chris