Yep , heat should  soften it.

Just keep moving the heat gun over the area so as not to burn anything.

You might have to go a far bit on either side of the misalignment to get a fair curve.

I did a similar thing on the bow of my CH Double to give it a finer entry.

Hope this helps

Bris Paul

You want to raise the temp of the whole fillet thickness, which a high temp source won't do- you'll cook the first layers while waiting for the inner to soften. Use hot water- large ziploc bags of water heated in a microwave works really swell. You can apply a bag to both sides, and for bonus points insert a cooking probe thermometer and try to avoid going over about 150F.

Thanks, good point.

My plan for the radiant paint melter is to go very gradually, apply heat, take it away, let the heat conduct in, repeat as needed. This is the same procedure for paint melting to avoid scorching/burning.  I'll be careful and report back w/ results

I just heated up the fillet (about a 12" long section) using my radiant heater.  The epoxy offgasses some visible vapor that looks like steam and smells like a chemical plant.  I had to heat for a  long time to get the heat to penetrate the thickness of the fillet. I alternated heating the outside of the boat (bare wood, so carefully) and the inside.  

I was about to give up as it had been about 10 minutes and nothing would budge, when it suddenly released and allowed the panels to go to where they were supposed to be. Dent is gone, and the epoxy appears to have hardened back up.  This was with glass tape and epoxy over the fillet by the way.  

Now I have a symmetrical hull!