Edit.

250 ml of epox.

-Ken.

Hmmm, glad I avoided the end pour and used carved blocks epoxied in place.  OK, stupid question time: why are you drilling/grinding it out?  Could you not cut the top off to allow the deck to be attached and leave the ugly mess out of sight?  Having never done this, I’m guessing the bubbles are too big to leave and sort of defeat the purpose.  There is a common suggestion to reduce the weight use micro-balloons but there you are introducing micro bubbles.  Just curious.

i made the same mistake.  Had no idea it would expand the way it did.  Once it stiffened a bit but before it was totally cured, I found a cabinet scraper worked pretty well to flush the mess back up with the sheer clamps and used a dremel on the face to clean it up.

David,

I was worried about the mess falling out, and If i get a leak on my port, I was worried about sea/river water goo getting back up in the area.

I drilled/dremeled out the stuff this weekend. I have been re-applying the  end pour in small layers.

ken.

one more pic on the next pour

My first boat did that.  Looked bad but sanded down easy.  I prefer to wait till the deck is on and put yak on end and pour.

Kim

The end pour should be THE last step in building your boat. You put the boat on its end and pour your goop through the hatch for a REALLY true seal . It can be frightening looking up at 18 feet of boat on its end towering over you, make sure she won't fall. I have done the fill both ways, it only makes sense to leave it as your last step. I know it's too late now but i hope this will help somebody. Just my humble opinion

Thanks for all the input.

I have been trying to follow the directions in the clc manual.

The end-pours were done by setting the kayak up on end on the side of my house.

I'm currently setting up the foot pegs- then off to decking!

Ken