Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

I'm placing the bulkheads on my first build, a Cheasapeake 16, and the beam of the boat is way too wide at the 63" mark from the bow where it's suppose to go. I have to move it 3-4" closer to the bow to get it to fit, but then the angle on the side of the bulkhead doesn't match the boat's interior shape at all (see photo of bulkhead placed at the 63" mark).

Forward bulkhead placed at 63

Can I safely squeeze in the shear clamps to make the bulkhead fit better? Or, am I stuck shrinking the size of my front hatch space?

Thanks,

Eric


6 replies:

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RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

Link to photo of forward bulkhead: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UxQK2F3t6v92AitpTThtSw?feat=directlink

Eric

RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

Eric,

It looks like the fit to the bottom and at the chines is pretty good, indicating that the sides are flared out to much.  So, yes, you should pull the sides in at the sheer.  Do the same at the aft bulkhead and at a spacer located at the point of maximum beam.  Then have a look and be sure that the sheer line is fair with no lumps and hollows.  If you have those then you may need to do a little adjusting.  Wire everything loose and then tighten all round a little at a time being sure everything stays in position.

Good luck and enjoy.

Paul

RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

Thanks -- I've just pulled in the sides with a clamp at the forward bulkhead -- it didn't take much pressure -- and the sheer lines still look fair. I'll wire it in place and let it sit for a couple of days before hitting the epoxy.

Eric

RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

I've just checked the distance of the forward bulkhead (rear-edge) from the bow of my C16 (as yet undecked), it is 62.91 inches. 

As you are probably aware, the positioning of the bulkheads is not absolutely critical and many builders seem to battle with bulkhead "fit". I made up dummy templates out of scrap (traced from the plans ~ but I was/am a plans-builder).

Way more important is getting the maximum beam measurement right. A precisely measured "beam stick" helps. This in itself can be a bit tricky as one really needs to position the stick below the sheer-clamps. If on the sheer-clamps it tends to jump (spring) out of position at annoying intervals.

Sooo... it takes careful measuring to get the stick to hold the beam at 23 and a half inches (give or take a quarter). One has to allow for the ply thickness (in total 8mm) and the taper of the side panels from sheer to chine.

Clear as mud !

Hang in there.

Dave

 

RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

Another possible sollution, especially if you do not have long legs is to figure out how much leg room you really need.  I did this on my 2nd kayak by putting the hull on a bean bag, sitting in it, simulating the paddle position with knees under the deck, and also leaving enough room to stretch straight up the middle.  I found that I could move the bulkhead 5 to 6 inches closer to the middle of the boat.  I left the origional bulkhead in its postion temporarily.  Cut a new bulkhead to fit closer to me.  then took out the origional.  The advantage of this is a bigger forward storage compartment and 4 to 5 gallons less to flood if you make a wet exit.

Ed

 

RE: Space around forward bulkhead - Chesapeake 16

I did check the beam stick again -- almost exactly 23 1/2 to outer edges of the plywood.

I did decide (as per Ed's suggestion) to measure my length in the kayak sitting position and moved the forward bulkhead an inch toward the bow. Less room for stuff, but that should give me room to stretch my legs in the cockpit -- it's going to be close.

Eric

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