Re: flush hatches/ bungee

Posted by Robert N Pruden on Aug 2, 2007

Do not cut the openings a half-inch wider. If you but the openings too wide then you will probably have leakage problems because the hatch will move around if bumped or jostled. The hatch should fit within 1/8" or less to minimize the possibilty of such movement which can cause leakage. I am not familliar with the CLC openings so I can't create an image in my mind as to how you would do it. That said, read on:

I will be doing this myself to my Waters Dancing Lightning 17. I will use the hatch as a stencil, trace out the new opening, jig saw the new opening, create the sill using new pieces cut from scrap okhume that I have laying around, glue it all into place using fibreglass reinforcement on the underside for added structural strength. I will use thickened epoxy to level out the hatch once it is fit-tested if I discover that it doesnt sit flush against the sill. This method of construction is Plan A if I opt to use rare earth magnets to hold the hatch down. Plan B would be for bungies and would require a deeper recess for the hatch so that I could use weather stripping to seal the hatch opening. I am sure, however, that I won't be using bungies - I want to maximize the space I have in the storage compartments for gear and food. A bungie-style hatch system would take a small amount of space away.

I hope this helps you a little.

Robert N Pruden

In Response to: flush hatches/ bungee by seth on Aug 2, 2007

Replies:

• Re: flush hatches/ bungee by seth on Aug 2, 2007
  • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by Dave Houser on Aug 3, 2007
    • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by seth on Aug 3, 2007
    • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by Laszlo on Aug 3, 2007
    • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by Dave Houser on Aug 3, 2007
      • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by seth on Aug 3, 2007
        • Re: flush hatches/ bungee by Dave houser on Aug 4, 2007