Re: Mill Creek Nose Block

Posted by Steve Miller on Jul 11, 2004

Joe, I cut my nose block to fit since I built from plans. Used a combination of tape. If the gaps are not too big then fill them with thickened epoxy. You will want a nice fillet around the block anyway. Put tape under the block too so it forms a dam then insert the block and use a bit of tape on the back to hold it in. Fill the gaps best as you can. Let it set hard then finish filling the gaps if needed.

I put the back coaming on the next day since I had to cut it to fit but if you can get the sides and back all on together go for it. I used two screws to hold the back in place since there is no really way to clamp it. Pulled them and filled the holes.

The sides really do need to go on after the nose block is in and cured. No other way too do it. You will likely have to trim the coamings a bit to get it all to fit. The force involved in fitting the side pieces will mess up your nose block fitting otherwise. Do a test run and you will see what I mean.

Don't forget the coaming rim pieces. They do add some strength.

Here is a photo of glueing the coaming on. There is a fair amount of twist. Note the tape and combo of clamps to hold it all together.

You don't have to wait 24 hours if you glue sets faster. Heat the shop?

Sunday - nose block Monday - coamings Tuesday - coaming back, coaming rim pieces Wednesday - epoxy coat to seal it all Thursday morning - 2nd coat of epoxy Thursday evening - 3nd coat of epoxy Friday - it cures Sat - vacation!

I say you can do it Joe. Good luck.

In Response to: Mill Creek Nose Block by Joe Lombardo on Jul 11, 2004