Re: Glass weave mess

Posted by Terry Mcadams on Jun 3, 2004

Yeah, Steve's right. Let it cure, than grind it off with 60 grit on the sander, feather the remaining glass edges, and apply a layer of 6 oz. cloth cut on the bias (which will conform to the hull better).

Or, as is my preference, just apply some brass half-oval down there for protection. Much, much more durable and easier to apply/maintain. See directions below:

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I use a method used in wooden canoe and boat-building for over a hundred years. I use 3/8 brass half-oval strips, available by the foot from jamestowndistributors.com. I cut two pieces about 18" each for the stem and stern. I then drill each piece every two inches to accept �" brass #6 oval head wood screws. I then rough up the back and file or sand the ends to a flat taper. Lastly I bend one end of each piece to curve up the stem and stern an inch or so.

Next I pre-drill the holes along the keel, stem and stern to accept the screws. Then I lightly sand the keel where the strip will be mounted, apply some thickened epoxy to the strip and screw it on.

These strips last a LONG time, even in the rough environment up north. I actually think they add less weight than repeated applications of multiple layers of cloth, dynel, graphite or whatever, and look pretty good. They will eventually tarnish, but, if your very fastidious (I'm not) you could polish or sand off the tarnish.

One builder even suggested using the brass strips for rubrails. I'm thinking about this on the MC 16.5 I'm building, as it will be launched from a floating dock and will spend time lashed alongside. Certainly easier to install/maintain than a wooden rubrail. Maybe lighter also.

Any other questions, e-mail me.

terry

In Response to: Re: Glass weave mess by Steve Miller on Jun 2, 2004

Replies:

• any pix Terry? by Tom Anderson on Jun 3, 2004
  • Re: any pix Terry? by Terry Mcadams on Jun 3, 2004
    • Re: any pix Terry? by jim nelson on Jun 3, 2004
      • Here's some photos by Pete Roszyk on Jun 7, 2004