Harry, some have tried, although I believe with different levels of success.  I attempted to use straps alone but the deck goes on vary wavy between the straps and you don't get a good glue joint.  The nails work quite well at not only pulling the deck-sides down but also at creating the right deck curve, to include eliminating the dip you'll get (fore and aft) when initially strapping it on.

Not sure stitching would give you the same strength as the nails.

An alternative to seeing the nails is to put a pinstripe (inch wide or so) down the edges of the deck; hides the nails and any color (other than white) really brings out the wood color/grain.  My plan is to stripe the deck edges, all the seams, around the cockpit (mine's carbon fiber..., not that it matters) and then paint the bottom a solid green (with just enough overlap up the sides to cover the wire holes).

Good luck; post pics if you can,

Larry

Harry,

I used straps on my wife's CH16LT and was happy with how it turned out. The trick to avoiding the problems Larry mentions is to have enough straps and to apply the pressure evenly. For the 16LT, I believe I used in excess of 30 1" straps. The straps can also be augmented with packing tape and/or shrink wrap. Basically, you need something to get the deck to the correct shape and then something to hold it there with an even pressure while it cures.

I don't think stitches would work all that well unless they were very thick, which would sort of miss the point of skipping the nails.

Laszlo

Harry,

 I used sheet metal screws (and straps) on my Oxford Shell with good results. After the epoxy cured I removed the screws, enlarged the holes and glued in plugs cut from oak dowel. Later I used a flush cut Japanese saw to cut off the excess.

 Good luck!

Glover

I used silicon bronze wood screws. The advantages were that

1. I could test fit the deck, screw it in place, and cut it just about perfectly to shape (I left it a little proud), which made the job easier and more accurate, and also enabled me to save some on wood by cutting the plywood sheet more precisely (I was building from plans);

2. Using the pre-drilled screw holes, I could quickly and accurately position the deck when epoxying it in place, which I am convinced made that process go more quickly and smoothly, and significantly limited the vocabulary I employed;

3. by counter-sinking the heads and fairing with epoxy, I avoided any dimples from nails.

Of course, that leaves the screwheads visible, but I did much as Larry suggests, and brought a painted a strip up around the sheer, which to my eyes very nicely frames the varnished deck while hiding the screwheads.

Just a thought ....

I am about to attach my deck this weekend, but have not cut it or traced the outlines.  Building from plans in book.  I may have trouble finding a helper bending the deck from a 4x8 sheet of plywood.  I like the idea of using screws which would allow me to screw one side in place and outline the other side, cut and repeat the process for the front.  1. My concern is would it weaken the "bond" by dilling and then taking out and putting back in again?  2. My second concern is the way the deck appears to go on wavy using straps?  I assume starting in the cockpit area, six screws on each side at a time would take the "wave out"as I go down the sides?.  Is four straps enough?  Thanks in advance for your help.

Kiz, as  you go from cockpit to the ends, the wavy areas will flatten out.

I wouldn't be concerned about the strength of the end bond; you'll have enough glue on the joints to pull a car!  Screwing the wood in, tracing, removing to cut and re-attaching shouldn't have any adverse impact in the end... especially if you just use 5 or 6 screws to get the pattern traced; go back and screw every 3 - 4 inches, you'll get great results.

I used 4 straps in my initial attachment and that was plenty.  I left them on for 24 hours while the glue set but that was probably unnecessary.

Good luck (post pics!),

Larry

I attached my rear deck last week, and I did not want to use any nails or screws either, so I pegged it down with hardwood dowels.

I pre strapped the deck down tightly for about a week then pre drilled the holes in the deck and shearclamps, cleaned up all the shavings so they woodn't get stuck in the glue, then reattached the deck onto preglued shears and inside deck, I tapped in the pre dipped dowels into the holes, almost till they bottomed out, So far I am very happy with the results, the front deck could be another story.

Pictures are on webshots, see link

[URL=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2449673160100154152XGBYcT][IMG]

http://thumb12.webshots.net/t/82/82/6/73/16/2449673160100154152XGBYcT_th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Never linked pic's before.

Ted