WoodDuck 12

Am studying the plans and manual to decide on whether to build WD 12 from scratch or kit.    Noticed that the manual shows scarfing the individual pieces, whereas the plans show scarfing the two sheets of ply first.   Does anyone have comments on this?   And which have you found preferable?



8 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: WoodDuck 12


i did mine from scratch. if you have some carpentry skills it can be done. take your time and enjoy the process. it does add some time to the build. expect to add 10+hours making the cuts. the scarf is not hard. I opted to make my own finger jointed jig and it turned out great. you can take a looj at my build at the following address http://cid-3d8b1d0065f1f759.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Wood%20Duck%2012%20project. i used some nifty tools that eased the build. a laser line, and a tailors tool for marking through the plans.




RE: WoodDuck 12

Hey, good luck with whatever you decide.  Just got my WD12 kit today and looking forward to what appears to be a very nice kit.  Will be my first stitch and glue.  With all the compound curves I'd be afraid my cutouts would somehow ruin the final shape and fitting of the panels. 

Have fun :-)

RE: WoodDuck 12

The kit is cut on a computer controlled machine.  This includes the puzzle joint for joining the two pieces so you will get precise alignment of the precut pieces.  If you are building from plans it is advisable to scarf your 8' lengths of ply together first so that you can lay out the plans on a single piece.  To cut the parts out first and then try to join them accurately would not be fesable. 

I have read that most people cut the 8x4 sheets into more manageable sizes before scarfing and then doing the final cut.  Makes it easier to handle.  I am planning to attempt a full 8x4 sheet scarf... should be fun.  have the jig all ready to go, just waiting for a combination of a day off and a bit warmer weather.

RE: WoodDuck 12


 I am going to cut the parts first and the use fiberglass reinforced butt joints to join the long pieces. I figured that I can't make a more square cut than the edges of the plywood. I used that method before and I was surprised at the strength and the ease of which I was able to hide them (more or less). Of course I plan on painting my kayak so that may be an issue.

 Ed Z

RE: WoodDuck 12

I've used butt joints on two kayaks and a sailing skiff and believe they are more than adequate if properly done. Bevel the edges slightly before joining them and apply two layers of cloth on each side, one of which should be cut on the bias. To assure proper alignment, though, I butt the plywood sheets together before I cut the panels. -Wes

RE: WoodDuck 12

Thanks to all who replied to my WD12 question.  Jon I liked your pics.  One further question- I see you used heavier plastice ties, with holes further from the edge for stitching- did this allow you to apply more force, for getting the proper bends on the panels?

RE: WoodDuck 12

actually the holes are drilled in the spots specified on the full size plans. i used wire on my Mill Creek build and just wanted to try the plastic zip ties. it worked well but the wire is better, and i woill go that route on the next one. also i used 1/2" ply for the temp braces i didnt see a need to chew up any additional Okoume that might come in handy. enjoy the build.


« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »

Please login or register to post a reply.


Special Financing with Blispay

 CLC's Fall Kit Sale