Dan,

Mine is made of carbon fiber, layed up exactly as you describe (although I used clear packing tape instead of plastic - major hassle to remove later)... and my coaming is now cured but has yet to be attached.  Needs shaping and sanding, as you describe.

Seems like your plan will work; just clamp the spacers well so they retain the shape of the deck as they dry.

Larry

Most people using a two-step coaming approach epoxy the spacers to the hull first.  Then clean up the outside edge of the spacers and add a tiny fillet.  While that's curing they round the outside edge of the top ring to a pleasing shape.  Then epoxy on the top ring.  This keeps the number of moving parts to a minimum.  Be careful at the front centerline of the coaming where the spacer halves meet - you need a smooth curve across the joint so the top ring doesn't look broken there when you are finished.  Hint:  you can sand that joint to a fair curve if needed.

Good luck, you're getting close to paddle time.

What # A30 did you own?  We have hull #114 (Carina Vela) up here in Gloucester, MA.  

I concur with what you have said about the cockpit coaming.  I feel like i rushed mine by doing the whole kitten all at once, and didn't get the opportunity to fair down the outer edges of the spacers. Mind you, I'm happy with the way it came out, but had I know things were going to progress into winter, I would have taken a lot more time on it.  Alas, I'm hoping the the teak/ash/cherry/walnut compass block and shaped cherry carry toggles take the focus off any deficiencies in the cockpit coaming :-)

~Chris 

I sold my Alberg 30 in 1988.  I can't remember the number. It was new in I think 1976 or 1977.  It's name was LaBrisa and a man from Texas bought it from me. It was a very sweet boat.

Dan 

A well-combed cockpit always looks good. :-)

The 2-part coaming assembly is definitely the way to go. Click on the picture if you want to see an example of how it was done on my WD12.

Laszlo