Chesse 16 panel edges

How critical is it for the edges of the side and bottom panels to be uniform after stitching?  I have not started to epoxy yet and wanted to make sure I triple checked everything. The panels all meet/ touch and there are no waves or bulges.  It looks great, however, I noticed near the bow that  the bottom panels start by over lapping the side panel edges.  As you follow where the bottom panel and side panels meet down the side if the kayak, the edges of the side panels are now exposed and the edges of the bottom panel are not.  I have a feeling I am looking into this too much, but do not want to overlook a common mistake.  I hope I am explaining this correctly?

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RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Kiz,

I seem to remember having a similar issue on my 17.  To correctly align the edges I pushed up/out from inside the seam, trying to pop them onto a common edge/plane, if that makes sense. 

Did you bevel the edges before stitching?  That helps put them together on a common edge... although I wouldn't un-stitch it at this point (if you didn't bevel).

Also, when you flip it upright and hang it (per manual - from four sticks) those edges may drop into place.  When I hung mine everything sort of "fell into shape," as if the hull knew what it was supposed to look like.

Sounds like if there are no gaps, bumps or waves you're probably ready to epoxy.

Good luck,

Larry

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Thank for the reply Larry.  I did not bevel the edges, I read both that you could and that it was not neccesary.  Probably would have been easier if I did.  I have been watching your progress on your 17 and am very impressed.  I think I am more paranoid becuase in the Zen video and book, they stress at times that if you are and 1/8 inch off during certain stages of building, the boat will pull to one side or the other and be useless.  I dont want to have to unstitch the boat unless this is a critical stage? 

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Kiz,

Be sure that your edges meet, or align, on the outside.  If you end up having to sand the thickness of one panel to get alignment, you will sand thru the top layer of the plywood, exposing the black layer underneath.  You will probably be better off having a very small gap rather than any overlap.  You may have to loosen some wires near the ends to get things to pop into place.  Just go slow and be sure you like what you see before you make it permanent with epoxy.  Good luck.

Paul G.

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Kiz,

I agree with what Paul G. said; be sure you like it 'cause epoxy is "el permanente!"

Another trick I've seen for aligning panels (in The New Kayak Shop book) is to put thin wedges in between the panels to get the shape you're after.  You might be able to press a few thin wedges in where you're having problems, forcing a better seam alignment.  After filleting around the wedges you can remove them and fill the thin gaps (quoting Paul, a thin gap can be filled and is better than sanding through plywood layers, if you're going with a bright finish).  By pressing the wedges back and forth you might be able to stabilize the seams enough to glue them.  Also might require loosening some wire stitches....  Just a thought.

Thanks for the comments on my build... I'm very happy with the results on a first-time-build, and I'm starting to understand what people here mean when they say "you'll build another, and another... etc.  Too much fun and satisfaction (like Lay's Potato Chips... can't eat just one!).

This weekend I'm building my carbon coaming.  It'll either be cool as can be or an epoxy dissaster; time and pictures will tell.  Wish me luck!

Larry

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Thanks again for all the feedback.  The panels all meet and it all looks great.  I know I will be filling in the outer gaps were the panels meets with epoxy and then sanding it all down and rounding the edges.  It sounds like as long as the panels meet and there are no major gaps or waves in the panels I should be good to go.  Have a great Thanksgiving!

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Hi Kiz,

I'm just a little bit ahead of you on my Chesse !6.  I did not bevel my edges, but was able to pull it all together so that the inside edges of all panels touched.  I used a syringe ($2.50 each from West Marine) with thickened epoxy to fill in the outside gaps before I did any sanding on the keel or chine.  I taped the edges, but probably could have gotten away without doing that.  It is all sanded now and I am very happy with the results.  I used a homemade pastry bag (Ziplock bag covered with duct tape) to put a bead of thickened epoxy where the two top panels meet at the bow.  It is all sanded now and I am very happy with the results.  I am working on a second Chesse 16 and will use the pastry bag for all fillets.

 

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

Been following the threads.  I'm at a much earlier stage (post scarfing glue-up, pre-lofting) but have taken note.  Thanks to all.

 

Stillj7, please could you email me a picture of your improvised pastry bag for doing the fillets ?  reynell@xnets.co.za 

With thanks

 

Dave

 

RE: Chesse 16 panel edges

I did not bevel the edges. After the boat was stitched, I went over all these edges very carefully.  Basically by not stitching too tightly was able to move panels so that at least inner edge met.  Depending in the angle of the pieces there was a gap or not.  This gap gets filleted later with wood thickened epoxy and than sanded. Finally when things were to my liking I tightened the wires and than checked everything again.  After the boat was supported, checked for twist, and ready for fillets checked again. Final result is quite nice.

Dan-Fl 

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