laminating gunwales

I'm refitting my woodstrip canoe. Im almost ready to install gunwales. Here's the situation: I have a lot of maple lyoing around that would be good for gunwales- tough if a liitle heavy. It's not long enough to make gunwales without scarf or finger joints, but I don't want those in my gunwales.

So, I'm considering ripping thenm into 1/8 strips and laminating gunwales. That way, I can overlap joints, and it will be very strong. I have epoxy left over from the glassing.

This fulfills one of my main requirements: CHEAP! Also, I think it would look cool.

Thanks.

Does anyone have experience with this? Any info would be useful.


5 replies:

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RE: laminating gunwales

Laminated gunwales are perfect. They're stronger than solid wood and much easier to apply. I used them on my pirogue and sailing dinghy and they worked great. Have lots of clamps and gloves on hand.

Laszlo

 

RE: laminating gunwales

Did you add them to the boat one strip at a time?

RE: laminating gunwales

Definitly 1 layer at at time. I also applied them symmetrically - started in the center on both sides and spread out to the front and back. One attachment toward the front was immediately followed by the next attachment toward the back. An attachment on one side on one side was immediately followed by an attachment on the other side. This was to keep the hull from being bent out of shape.

I used a serrated putty knife to apply the glue which made it much easier to get even coverage. On one boat I used clamps to hold the everything in place, on the other (with much stronger curves) I used decking screws which I removed after the epoxy cured.

Wait at least 24 (48 is better) hours before undoing the clamps or screws.

Have fun,

Laszlo

 

RE: laminating gunwales

cool, I didn't think of alternating them-makes sense. I like the serrated putty knife idea. What was the thickness of your strips? 1/8 seems to be easier to work with, but 1/4 would be quicker.

 

thanks.

RE: laminating gunwales

Mine were 3/8". 1/8" or 1/4" would work fine, too. Just more time, as you say. Stronger curves are easier with thinner wood.

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