Beautiful job Greg.  I couldn't help but notice that, as in my case, the guy with the best looking boat has the tallest grass!  

Hooper

���I mean ERIK. I wish we could edit posts...

   I really like your paint scheme.  Nice use of color and line.  And more patience in the final sanding than I had with mine.  It really paid off on yours.  :-)

In rigging, I have splurged on a small Harken 40mm Hexa-ratchet block in place of the stock one on the mainsheet.  It helps reduce the strain of holding the sheet in stiff winds.  Also, I took a page from another example here by making a long shock cord loop with small plastic hooks on the end (hiding under the seat).  It loops through the 2 large cutouts in the center frame and around the trunk. Then I grab the back of the loop and bring it up and over the seat between the mainsheet hook legs and over the front of the seat so when I put in the board, I can just release it back over the seat to put pressure on the board. That pressure is enough to hold it but not so much that I can't pull or push it into position. I bought bulk shock cord and the little plastic hook ends with sockets to make smooth, compact ends.  Cheaper than ready made bungees and I can adjust the length to just what I need.

I also put a 2 part tackle on the downhaul to more easily tension the luff, especially in fresh breezes.  I just used the existing cleat to tie off a block on the mast, and lashed the (reused) block w/ becket on the boom.  Max tension is when the tackle is two-blocked obviously, and it works out that is the max I'd ever want.

The other thing I have done is try to tame the wayward tiller and give it a more positive connection to the rudder arm.  I saw a previous post here showing the use of a hiking stick swivel and decided to use it.  It is great, although I learned the hard way to always have a spare pin and cotter ring for when (not if) you drop it in the water while rigging!  I could rig it w/ line (always have extra line) in an emergency.  I also epoxied a small scrap block under the stern seat w/ a drilled hole to make an anchor for small shock cord, which I just bring up, wrap on the tiller and tie off w/ a clove hitch or two on the tiller.  It is just tight enough to keep the tiller from falling in the water and stretchy enough to follow me wherever I move in the boat.

Erik:

Very nice looking job on your Skerry.  I wish you all joy of many adventures in her!

Here's a photo:

...illustrating the basic approach we used for the lug sail downhaul on our PMD.  I whipped a SS thimble into an appropriately sized alpine butterfly loop in the midde of a short length of 1/8" line which was lashed around the boom.  (The halyard was attached to the yard and the sheet to the boom with similar arrangements, but without the thimble, allowing all the attachment points to be adjusted easily.)  As you can see the downhaul line is brought from the cleat, up through the thmble and back down to the cleat for a simple 2:1 purchase, which has proved adequate.

Since this photo was taken I've found that it works better to rig the line in the opposite direction so that the side pulling down comes along the forward side of the cleat, passing beneath so that I can pull it aft to belay.  Also, the working end is now secured through the cleat with a stopper knot rather than a bowline as shown here.

Simple and effective.  Left hand bearing down some on the boom while the right hand pulls the downhaul prevents slipping until I get a turn on the cleat to take the strain.

Correct tension on the downhaul (more for more wind, less for less) is the main key to making a balance lug like the one one my PMD and on your lovely lug-rigged Skerry work.  Set properly, I find that Doug Fowler's fine sail pulls like a prize American Cream draft mule.

.....Michael (a.k.a. Gramps)