Got my new deck started...

Went out and got my wood yesterday for a strip deck on my Northbay.  Spent Friday finishing up pulling the old deck off (from the shearclamps at last) and cut out the last bit of the skeg box.  So what did I get, you ask?

17 board feet of white cedar,

3.5 Board feet of mahogany, and

6 board feet of walnut.  

 I won't be using all the walnut, and probably not all of the mahogany, but I think I'm right on the edge with the cedar.  We'll see how it goes.  I spent today planing the wood and scarfing it, and even ripped a dozen or so short strips of the cedar.  I realized I needed to make a router table in order to cove and bead the strips so I spent the last hour of my work time doing that.  Just need some long enough mounting screws and I'm ready to groove those bad boys and then get to work gluing them up.

I came up with a question while ripping my strips today though.  I'm primarily having cedar with the walnut and mahogany as accent strips.  The accents will be a mellow wave pattern from the front to the rear of the boat.  Is it better to start with the accent strips or leave blanks for the accents and go back to them after I get a good chunk of the cedar in place? 

FrankP 


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RE: Got my new deck started...

If you look at my blog http://kayakkev.wordpress.com/category/wood-kayak/expedition-single/ and http://kayakkev.wordpress.com/category/wood-kayak/guillemot-l/ you will see that I set my sheer lines first, then my pattern and filled in the holes.  I did however see somewhere that they stripped the whole deck in cedar and then cut out the pattern with a jig saw and filled it in.  That seemed like a waste of energy and wood to me, plus not sure how structural it wood be not locked in with bead & cove when it came time to pull the forms.

Kev

RE: Got my new deck started...

Kev,

Structurally the butt joints are plenty sound enough, the bead and cove just makes it a little easier to get a clean alignment.  I don't think it helps significantly with the strength of the joint, though I could be wrong about that.  I hadn't even considered the fact of how I'm going to join the sweeping curves with the rest of the coved strips.  That will be something I'll have to consider since my curves aren't going to be readily mated along the whole length using the cove and bead.

FrankP

RE: Got my new deck started...

Gee Frank, I don't get it, neither you or my girlfriend seem to read my mind as to what I mean not what I say.  At least I don't see the goofy look you give me.

When I was talking structure, I was refering to the point when you remove your forms, not of the yak itself.  The fibreglass will take care of that when on both sides.  But when your glue oozes out from the joint you are making, and runs between the strips and the forms, sometimes it sticks better than the joint does, and I have tried both bead & cove, and just planed a tight butt joint.  The cove really does hold better when prying.

As to the curves, I just made everything with a bead and cove, and where I had a straight piece run into a curved piece, I just plane, or file the match.  Beads are easier to make.

Kev

RE: Got my new deck started...

Kev, thanks for the advice.  I was just reading your blog yesterday, fine looking boats you've built there.  I'm hoping it will be as nice a final finish when I get there...

FrankP

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