This should have said " I have found a 2 x 6 piece at HD"

The price will certainly be right.    You will need to resaw to .75inch thickness. Coming from 1.5 inch stock, you will end up at slightly less than .75 inches when you take into account of the saw kerf. That isn't what the designer indicated. I guess it's up to you whether you are comfortable with the difference (maybe 1/16 inch less than .75 inch).

For width of course you will be fine - each of the mast sides is less than 5.5 inches maximum size. 

  Yes  CraigG the saw cut is usually about an 1/8 " so I would lose half that on each piece.  I have other suppliers here in fredericton NB that I can try first for clear 1x 6.

Have you made pocketship and if so do you have a blog? I am at the fiberglassing the top sides stage and working on other woodwork type projects as it do it, so the mast and sliding companionway hatch are my current focus.

Thanks,

Cliff

Yes, I built a Pocketship but didn't write a blog. I do post regularly on the Pocketship.net forum (my boat is Titania).

​As to your mast, I cut mine from a 1x12x16 foot clear douglas fir board. If you flip the tapered staves alternately, you can fit it on a board that size with room to spare. The plans specify "spruce, pine, fir" which is very generic. Pocketship #1 used sitka spruce, which is lightweight but weaker compared to doug fir or other pine/fir woods. I've read rule-of-thumbs which say that a mast of a stronger wood, e.g. doug fir, can be 10% smaller diameter than a comparable mast of a weaker wood, like sitka spruce. Ergo, if I was confident that the wood was of good quality (clear, dry, relatively dimensionally stable), I personally wouldn't have any reservations about 1/16 thinner walls. Just things to keep in mind.  (Another boat mentioned on the Pocketship forum, Tattoo, has a mast of white pine, which is even lighter and weaker than sitka spruce, and hasn't had any problems related to the mast breaking, which again suggests that the designed mast has a healthy safety factor built in.)

   Thanks again Craig,

I will look up Titania.  I have a question about the companionway hatch cover 

and the box it goes in. I cannot find the dimensions for the box except the front piece 

that is beveled at 66 degrees. I made that piece today.  But what about the sides? What dimensions are they? Assume the same height as the front which is 4 and 1/ 2 "

But what about how long they are? And what type wood did you use?

Thanks again.

It's my recollection that those side pieces are laid out full-size on the templates, but I could be mistaken. They should probably be slightly higher than 4.5" because they have a bevel on the bottom to match the curve of the cabin roof. You can use any wood that is convenient, since it will be epoxy coated. I used yellow pine since I had the material handy, but that is very heavy. In the end I decided not to use the companionway hood as designed because I had trouble seeing over the top of it. Instead I installed a "slim" version that is just a sliding hatch without the cover. So far no leaks. I finished that version two days before Okoumefest last year and it survived a big rainstorm on the drive to Maryland and the day of the festival.   

Found the templates Craig. Thanks. Here are some pics of the hatch cover and hood. The cabin top is not symmetrical but I noticed that before.  For example the port side is about 13 inches from the join in the ply cabin top to the doade box but it is over 14 inches on the starboard side.  See pics. This is affecting the way my hood fits some. I can make it work but the hood is not going to be exactly lined up. Did you have any of these issues?

https://m.facebook.com/clifford.cull?ref=bookmarks

   Couldn't upload the pics so I included the fb link to my fb where the images are posted

I don't have facebook, so unfortunetely I'm not able to see your pictures. But, I didn't have that problem. Even a roof that went on normally requires careful beveling of the sides to match the cabin roof. I guess it would be easier if the companionway was epoxied on, since the bevel wouldn't need to be as precise.

>>>>>>
Hi all, this is a question for John Harris or any pocketship builder. I have found a nice 16 foot length of 2 x 6 spruce at Home Depot that has little knots only. This is actually then 1.5 " x 5.5 " .  So can I  mill this to make the 4 pieces that get glued to make the mast? Or should I buy 1 x 6 x 16 feet pieces?
>>>>>>>>

Definitely use that 2x6 material!  You'll have to mill it down to 3/4", but any clear wood is good wood. PocketShip #1's mast staves were milled from 2-inch material.  You can actually see the short, thick boards that became #1's mast being unloaded in this early video at 2:10:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSCA8S62eno

   Thanks John. Any ideas about the off centre cabin top? Here is the link to my blog that has the pictures also.

http://cliffordscull.blogspot.ca

>>The cabin top is not symmetrical but I noticed that before.  For example the port side is about 13 inches from the join in the ply cabin top to the doade box but it is over 14 inches on the starboard side.>>>>

An inch is a lot, but it's invisible in your pictures. I'll guarantee that if you pull a measuring tape on my PocketShip, it isn't perfectly symmetrical, either!

When I patterned out the boat to create the CNC-cut SeaDek nonskid decking, it was a bit of an adventure because left and right sides were definitely not exactly the same shape.  (Some quick trimming with scissors and it looks absolutely Bristol.)

This isn't peculiar to PocketShip or wooden boats in general. Even production-molded fiberglass boats (especially pre-CNC-era) are asymmetrical. Call it character...