I  almost bought a bunch a while back, and I am very picky, though in this case I was not pushing the structural end.  In the end they wouldn't ship to my address.   I have used raka at the current cheap end of the spectrum and it seemed very good.  It would maybe help others who may reply if they knew what you were looking for.  Making standard stitch and glue boats is not beyond the ability of even the cheapest stuff I have used over the years, but epoxies do vary, if you are building a carbon fiber spar your needs will vary from someone who is building a simpler tub.  On CLC boats I would not want to vary the epoxy structural level on stuff like multuhull beams, but it might be OK on other parts.  Another thing that may not be any kind of problem but none the less, are the puzzle joints, if the glue is soft they might print through glass and paint.

Epoxies are quite variable as to their workability.  CLC has some excellent educational resources, you may find that if you don't use the epoxy they recommend for a first boat (for anyone to whom that applies), it may be the case that the instruction don't apply to the brand you do choose, even if it is excellent. 

   I have 3 quarts arriving Friday that I'm going to use on my Sailrig MkIII project to clear-coat the akas, leeboard, rudder, and decks of the amas.  I became interested because of the UV inhibitors in the DWX.  If I don't have to apply 8 coats of varnish, it will save me days and days of work, rather than getting this oft-delayed project into the water.  I'll post my impressions once I see how it applies.  

   Ok, here's an update.  First impression relates to set-up time.  The epoxy is available with either a slow or fast hardener.  I opted for the standard (slow) hardener, and it takes much longer to kick off than the MAS epoxy slow hardener.  This is both good and not, depending on the job at hand.  Large filleting jobs are less of a panic, as you have lots more time to get the fillets laid out without worrying about the rest of the filleting mix turning hot and hard.  On the other hand, if your mix is a little too light on the wood flour and you're trying to do a large fillet, in the range of 3/4" radius or more, there is more time for the fillet to "sag" before the epoxy starts to set up.  Coming back in a couple of hours to lay glass onto the fillets is problematical as the fillets are still extremely soft.  Giving the epoxy an overnight wait presents you with epoxy that has set up, but is not totally hard.  Definitely too soft to sand, but ready for another coat.  On the other hand, the epoxy wets out glass beautifully, flows out like a good varnish, and has a very nice look to it.  Giving it an extra night to cure, the epoxy is VERY easy to sand, better than some marine polyurethanes I've used (cough, System Three, cough).  I was able to easily prepare for the next coat with only 220 paper.   Two coats on bare wood results in a nice, high gloss finish, although I'm going to go for three coats for durability.  Another note:  the pumps give much more volume per pump than the ones from MAS, filling your mixing cup with less effort.  But, that also means more potential waste if you're only looking for a small amount for a quick job, requiring some planning in bunching together several small jobs.  Really not a big deal.  Bottom line:  so far, I like the stuff.  

   My main interest in DWX epoxy is from my understanding that varnish is not necessary, and perhaps a smoother finish than with varnish.  Not only faster to finish a project, but wouldnt it also be easier to repair?  No re-doing a damaged area of varnish, and then repairing the epoxy...just touch  up the epoxy.  Right?

Curt