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Technique for painting a cove strike?
Final coat of paint is on the Skerry, and am looking to add a cove stripe right under the handrail, about an inch or so wide. I'm planning paint it, but I am wondering about anyone else's experience while striking the tape nice and even, parallel to the handrail, and straight. Options I see are:
* eye-ball it, but keeping it parallel seems tough, or
* run a sacrifical tape under the rail to set the width, butt the real tape along that edge, then remove the first tape.
How have you handled this? Any other ways that you've found works?
Thanks!
Matt
2 replies:
RE: Technique for painting a cove strike?
I used the "sacrificial" tape method you describe and it worked great!
http://www.midnight-maker.com/#!Eastport-Pram-Build-15-Interior-Fillets-Graphite-Bottom/c1kw6/55b581cb0cf25466c2aa26ac
RE: Technique for painting a cove strike?
» Submitted by nemochad - Sun, 6/12/16 » 3:20 PM
A traditional cove stripe is neither parallel sided nor equidistant below the rail. Like the sheerstrake itself, the stripe should taper in width toward each end (a little), and should be slightly lower positioned where the strake is widest, rising toward each end. Measure out a series of maybe 10 points along the strake, and gently stretch some pretty fat (1" or so) Fineline tape from point to point, in one smooth continuous motion, sighting the curve as it lays down, trying to aim through the next mark. It may take several lift-and-reposition attempts as you try to get a fair curve through all points.
If you have or can make a full length batten, you can also spring clamp it in place, and adjust until eye sweet.