The 2-inch overlap by itself is not enough to hold the boat together, at least not for long. You still need to glue the deck to sheer clamps or fillet & tape the deck to the hull on the inside, depending on which boat you're building. What does the boat manual say to do?

At the top right corner of this page is a link called "Contact Us". That will get you directly in touch with the folks at CLC. A real person will either talk to you (if you phone) or answer your e-mail. You'll get the absolutely official answer from the people who designed the boat and wrote the manual, rather than a lot of different opinions that you then have to choose between.

Have fun,

Laszlo

Thank you for your response.  I think I will do that.  Just for conversation, I'm building the Hybrid Night Heron from CLC.  It states to seem the inside then fiberglass the entire deck while leaving a 2 inch overhang to be wetted onto the sheerline for the point to glue the deck to the hull.  I know I sould go by the manual but this is a boat from Nick Schade and he FB's both halves inside and the outside with a full cloth entirely then  independetly tapes the  the seems inside and the outside.  I like the later.  

Is your manual for the S&G or is it specific to a hybrid? Most strip construction is faired and glassed while still on the forms, i.e. there's no way to use the deck glass to attach the deck to the hull.

Instead of "tape", cut long strips of cloth on the bias to reinforce the outer seam. It'll be smoother, stronger, and clearer.

It's specific to the hybrid Night Heron.  When it comes to the instructions for covering it referers to the Shearwater hybrid.  It shows that the deck is stripped and carefuly removed from the form turned upside down then the inside is fiberglassed.  Nex it then gets put on the hull correctly and the top of the deck is fiberglassed while some cloth extends over the shearline to be glue to the  hull along with taping the inside.  As I continue to research, no one seems to be against fiberglassing both halves independently then get taped inside and outside with a bias cut.   

   As you are experiencing, there is almost unlimited variation on how to build a boat.  In his book, Nick Schade details glassing both top and bottom of the deck before mating to hull with FG tape.  He also says that he never builds two boats the same way and there is at least one video of him glassing the top of the deck after mating and using the overhang to attach at the shear.  The CLC hybrid directions say to first tape the inside then glass top of deck after mating.  I prefer the latter technique because there is no glass seam on the deck.  I don't think that there is a wrong answer as long as you get a good bond between the hull and deck.

Deck/hull held together while I use glass tape on the inside.

Glass cloth over the deck ready for wet out.  Note blue masking tape on the hull about 2" below the shear.

I greatly appriciate your answer especially with the addition of photos.  Again, thank you.  I see your point about not having a seem using the "hangover method".  Though it does make it difficult to build hatches and such because isn't it better to cut them out after fiberglassing?  Anyways since we are on the subject of FB. You would mind answerinf one more question of mine?  You did say there are many different ways to build a kayak.  I am realizing that but there are some ways work but aren't the greatest.  My point is that I have seen and read especially the manual for my Hybrid Night Heron reads to fiberglass the entire inside hull but shows a diagram that has small print and it says to FG only the cockpit and "tape the seems"  So which way?  I can see that covering all thhe inside hull will give strenght but will add weight.  Though does it give than much more strengthto be worth adding the weight vs just taping the seems?

I am not familiar with the NH Hybrid so I can't give great specific advise.  I can say that I have built 4 CLC S&G kits and my experience is that you can't really go wrong if you stick to the manual.  If you have questions regarding the manual, I strongly advise that you call CLC and get clarification.  The staff is VERY knowledgeable and you will get a straight answer in no time.

The answers to your other questions really vary with the boat design.  I built my Wahoo (the strip boat in the picts) from plans and elected to cut the hatches after fiberglassing the underside of the deck but before glassing the top.  I installed bulkheads so I needed the hatch openings to be able to tape the hull/deck seam on the inside.

Some designs, like the S&G Petrel Play, call for glass on the entire interior (hull and deck).  Some, like the Shearwater Double call for glass on the interior of the hull with only tape on the interior deck seams.  Some, like the Chesapeake only call for interior glass in the cockpit area of the hull.  This is all a strength/weight trade off that the designer has made, and I would stick with the design unless you have a good reason to deviate. 

I think I will call them because the design is from Nick Schade.  The typed instructions in the manual says different than the ilistration picture in the same manual.  So I will calrify it with CLC.  Thanks for your work on trying to answer my queastion.  BTW.  I'm sure you have heard this before but your kayak looks outstanding.